Givenchy Fall 2014–Glam was in for Givenchy’s fall-winter 2014 runway show presented Sunday at Paris Fashion Week. The collection saw creative director Riccardo Tisci moving away from the street wear inspired aesthetic that has been so entrenched in the label for the past few seasons. Instead, the Givenchy woman is given a more ladylike makeover for autumn, but it is not stuffy by any means. Silk blouses with soft pleats, knee-length dresses of the same material and puffy fur coats dominate the fall preview. Pattern takes shape in the form of animal prints and butterfly-inspired motifs which add another dimension to the designs. The finale looks worn by Kendall Jenner and Mariacarla Boscono were powerful yet simple featuring fitted bodices paired with sheer, black pleated skirts.
Chloe Fall 2014–The soft, relaxed attitude of the Chloe woman was given a touch of the untamed for the label’s fall-winter 2014 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week this Sunday. Creative director Clare Waight Keller sent out the house’s signatures–a parade of easy, tomboyish separates for the autumn season in a mix of neutrals and pastels. However, the look is emboldened with luxe multi-colored furs and ruffle embellishments for a sense of surprise in the Chloe woman’s wardrobe. Elsewhere, dresses and skirts are decorated with raised geometric gold emblems while funnel neckline jackets bring a sporty mood. Finishing the look, Waight Keller adds a large carryall and suede knee-high suede boots to the polished ensemble.
Kenzo Fall 2014–Designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon teamed up with director David Lynch for Kenzo’s fall-winter 2014 runway presentation. The American creative made the soundtrack and set designs for the show that debuted pieces inspired by his work for the 90s television drama “Twin Peaks” which is know for its mysterious and supernatural elements. For fall, the Kenzo designers played with proportion–juxtaposing full and pleated skirts with knit sweaters or tops with origami-like folds and slimline pants. The color palette embraces black, grey, citron green and burnt orange. The Kenzo woman also sports her own version of a suit for autumn–a quilt patterned three piece in black adds an androgynous touch to the season.
Céline Fall 2014–After last season’s painterly prints, Céline’s Phoebe Philo offered a more pared down vision for the brand’s fall-winter 2014 collection. A simplified outing does not necessarily mean minimal. The Céline woman takes on print in the form of leopard spots, color with spots of sky blue and bright yellow tones as well as embellishment in the shape of crystal adorned dresses and coats featuring feather-light wispy adornments. The silhouette is more streamlined than spring however. Coats fit close to the body with cocoon-like shapes while knits are long and lean worn over wool skirts. The shoe of choice this season is a leather wedged sandal with an ankle strap while Philo creates a bag with dull hardware and a stitching-like embroidery.
Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2014–Space. It’s the final frontier and the theme for Jean Paul Gaultier’s fall-winter 2014 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week this Saturday. The French designer revisited a familiar motif–punk–to go along with all the trappings of space age clothing. Futuristic metallic juxtaposes with fur, leather and tartan prints for an outing that ranges from a baggy jumpsuit to sequin embellished leggings worn underneath a puffy jacket. Beauty for the sci-fi Gaultier woman includes high top knots, a sassy cat eye and strong eyebrows. Some models even walked with Jetson-like funnels worn around their necks as well as clear heels and shoe bottoms.
Viktor & Rolf Fall 2014–While last season was an ode to the uniform, Viktor & Rolf found inspiration in a grey V-neck sweater for their fall-winter 2014 collection. The color palette was quite muted as the entire showing featured shades of grey which were later enriched with the juxtaposition of light blue and coral tones. Surprisingly, the sweater takes many forms. From an elongated wool dress with an uneven hemline to moto cross inspired sweaters featuring bold, graphic patterns. Viktor & Rolf add some more glamorous elements in the form of crystal embroidered details, sheer sleeves and velvet separates such as the finale look modeled by Liu Wen.
Haider Ackermann Fall 2014–It is time for change–Haider Ackermann said with the clothes presented during his fall-winter 2014 collection at Paris Fashion Week. Gone is his signature airy chiffon draping and layering, but instead it is replaced by something more minimal. The silhouette is menswear inspired featuring roomy pants and jumpsuits with sleeves that extended past the normal length. Instead of chiffon, Ackermann chooses fabrics like cashmere, snakeskin for more fitted looks and flannel tops. Despite fall signifying a change in the Colombian designer’s aesthetic, you still see the label’s DNA with the balance of graceful shapes and masculine elements. Where it goes next, one must wait and see.
Sonia Rykiel Fall 2014–Marking his third season at the helm of Sonia Rykiel, Geraldo da Conceicao’s fall-winter 2014 collection offered some experimentation on an already solid foundation. The Sonia Rykiel woman’s outlook for fall? Cozy and long wool coats, voluminous fur jackets and visible pockets–whether on trousers, coats or skirts. The proportions and lengths for autumn are a little mannish with outerwear featuring squared shoulders and relaxed-fit pants cropped at the ankle. Wallpaper inspired prints cover everything from color-blocked scarves to mid-length skirts and cropped jackets. Da Conceicao finishes the look with platform wedge sandals and partially sheer gloves; a ladylike touch to the autumn season.
Isabel Marant Fall 2014–French designer Isabel Marant brought a new approach to her eponymous label’s fall-winter 2014 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. The formerly bohemian girl was given a somewhat mannish makeover with an outing of oversized and slouchy trousers, jackets with bulky exaggerated shoulders and grungy plaid prints. Despite the tomboyish appeal, the Marant woman kept a feminine touch in the form of sequin-embellished sweaters and skirts, unexpected ruffles and leather mini skirts. Boots are the shoe of choice–whether as a furry snow boot or a heeled ankle boot.
Dior Fall 2014–By now, Raf Simons’ vision for the Dior woman seems clear. A streamlined silhouette with unexpected pops of color which also honors the house’s heritage of expert tailoring. For the label’s fall-winter 2014 collection, the Dior woman wears the iconic Bar jacket as a fitted blazer paired with slim-fit pants and holds a vibrant stole over her arm in shades of fuchsia, sapphire and yellow. Elsewhere, she sports daytime dresses featuring unexpected slits–revealing pastel slips underneath. Simons then gets sculptural with full and ruffled skirts taking on varying lengths that show off a good amount of leg for the autumn season. Ending on an evening wear note, the Dior woman gets swathed in a crystal embroidered gown worn over a white, almost t-shirt like dress.