Lanvin Fall 2014–After last season’s focus on metallic, the fall-winter 2014 collection from Lanvin saw Alber Elbaz deliver an outing of embellishments and volume-filled pieces. The opening looks started on a dramatic note–models walked in fringe-adorned hats paired with ruffled skirts and frayed tweeds. Then, the show progressed into a more streamlined silhouette with pleated skirts, leather trenches and roomy dresses decorated in bugle beads. The season calls for furs, and the Lanvin woman has plenty of choices in that department in the form of bulky coats, luxurious stoles and trims. Fall ends on a quiet note with relaxed fitting dresses adorned in color-blocked fringe.
Nina Ricci Fall 2014–With last season exploring the reinvention of the classic menswear shirt, Nina Ricci creative director Peter Copping embraced full on ladylike appeal for the brand’s fall-winter 2014 collection. The autumn outing is quite cohesive, taking the Ricci woman from daytime to evening almost seamlessly. The former of which pairs knit turtleneck sweaters with fur jackets and above-the-knee skirts. Copping also incorporates floral prints in the mix as well–pastel blooms adorn silk dresses and separates. The botanical theme continues onto to the evening wear section where lace and tulip embellished gowns–sometimes with asymmetrical hemlines–bring a romantic touch to the new season.
Balmain Fall 2014–While last season found inspiration in 90s style, Olivier Rousteing’s fall-winter 2014 collection for Balmain took a more modern approach with a tribal influence. The Balmain woman wears bandeau skirts and military-inspired jackets with cinched waists. Tops have peplum finishes paired with leather pants and opaque leggings. Focusing on details and embellishments, one must appreciate fall’s dresses and skirts made of intertwined rope as well as its bamboo-heeled stilettos etched with intricate patterns. Accessories are also tribal influenced–animal print patterns, studded chokers and belts, and chunky bamboo hoops bring a glamazon vibe to the autumn season.
Balenciaga Fall 2014–With his third runway show at the helm of Balenciaga, Alexander Wang continues to infuse a sportswear leaning into the label’s fall-winter 2014 collection. The silhouette for the new season is streamlined with a focus on outerwear including fisherman inspired jackets and sweaters featuring utilitarian zippers and hooks. Sweaters and coats with bold neon accents definitely showed Wang’s influence. Handbags for fall come in the shape of typical shopping bags, but the materials are far from typical. Luxe crocodile and leather finishes cover mini and large versions in colorful and neutral hues.
H&M Studio Fall 2014–Presenting it’s second runway show during Paris Fashion Week, H&M Studio (the name of H&M’s key seasonal outings) presented a fall-winter 2014 collection which mixes a masculine and feminine mood. Tomboyish biker jackets are juxtaposed with sexy slip dresses and draped tops. Set at the historic Grand Palais, top models hit the runway in fabrics including cashmere knits, velvets and silk satin in slouchy shapes. Mannish outerwear for the season is accented by faux fur. Overall, the collection is very stylish, very trendy, very H&M.
Gareth Pugh Fall 2014–While other designers follow trends, Gareth Pugh walks securely to his own, sci-fi inspired beat as shown by the English designer’s fall-winter 2014 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. Pugh’s well-known cocoon-like shapes and voluminous kimono dresses took center stage on the catwalk in a color palette of strictly white, eggshell and silver metallic. Not one afraid to experiment with shape; capes with dramatic ruffles, long tunics with funnel necklines and avant-garde strip treatments bring a wonderfully dramatic effect to the fall season. Pugh’s outing culminated with the finale look worn by Sigrid Agren–a clear, plastic looking billowing robe dress that made her look like an alien princess.
Dries Van Noten Fall 2014–Belgian designer Dries Van Noten brought a forties twist to his fall-winter 2014 collection presented during the second day of Paris Fashion Week. The ladylike silhouette of autumn featured a slightly roomy fit with below-the-knee skirts flared at the bottom as well as feminine blouses with sleeves that cut off at the elbows. Embellishment is key to the new season. Whether in the form of sparkling sequins or fur trimmings or even oversized flower corsages adorning tops–the Van Noten woman brings an opulence to her daytime glamour. The models’ hair and makeup is also suitably retro with matching side-swept and wavy bobs as well as barely there makeup.
Anthony Vaccarello Fall 2014–Continuing his love affair with a sleek and sexy silhouette, Anthony Vaccarello presented a fall-winter 2014 collection that was inspired by eighties fashion illustrator Tony Viramontes. Marking the first day of Paris Fashion Week, the Belgian designer mixed rock and roll glam with Parisian cool for the new season with a color palette of black and red. Party girl dresses with sculptural detailing and sexy cutouts gave way to leather motorcycle jackets and slim-fitted pants.
DSquared2 Fall 2014–A psych ward circa the 1960s served as the inspiration for DSquared2′s fall-winter 2014 collection. Designers Dean and Dan Caten focused on a mod silhouette which is sleek and fitted to the body with short hemlines hitting above the thigh. Models were escorted by nurses in white capes and matching helmet hats. The Catens presented other sixties styles including but not limited to swing coats, colorful trenches, shift dresses and color-blocking elements. Accessories also played up the collection’s theme–bejeweled ankle and wrist cuffs were joined by neck chokers for the latest in hospital chic.
Giorgio Armani Fall 2014–Fade to Grey. That is the title of Giorgio Armani’s fall-winter 2014 collection presented during the final day of Milan Fashion Week. The Italian designer traded in the saturated blues of last season for the more murky colors of grey and black. Tailoring for autumn is relaxed; featuring jackets with rounded shoulders as well as slim-fit trousers that fall at the ankle. Along with the play of grey, Armani also interjected a bright lime into the mix for a dramatic pop of radiance. Evening wear shows off crystal embroidery techniques with that aforementioned lime also decorating many of the gowns.