Rodarte’s Retro Inspired Fall – Rodarte sisters Laura and Kate Mullavey brought a more mature, refined touch to their dreamy designs with the label’s fall 2012 show presented earlier today during New York Fashion Week. Taking a cue from 40s inspired silhouettes, the duo chose a subdued palette of nude, marmalade and burgundy for the new season. Leather and shearling brought a hard edge to the romantic designs in the form of aviator style jackets. Gowns were adorned in Swavorski crystals, referencing a more feminine touch.
The Mad Hatter – For fall 2012, Marc Jacobs teamed up with milliner Stephen Jones to help envision his latest collection filled with oversize and floppy hats that could easily belong to Alice in Wonderland’s Mad Hatter. Playing with the fairytale theme, Jacobs offered a fantastical play on proportions in the form of bulky skirts and jackets layered expertly for the autumn season. The color palette was steeped in moody hues with accents of gold, powder pink and lilac. Patterns ranged from paisley to floral which broke up the heavy silhouettes with levity. The show ended on a more subdued note, featuring a few pared down ensembles that lengthened in hemlines and flattened in shape.
Wang’s Pared Down Fall – After last season’s array of prints and racing motifs, Alexander Wang chose a more pared down approach for his fall 2012 show featuring an all-star cast including Gisele Bundchen, Shalom Harlow, Frankie Rayder and Karolina Kurkova amongst others. This season went back to Wang’s roots albeit a tad more polished with leather coats, netted masks which covered models’ lower faces and knitted sweaters. The collection was minimal with a focus on embellishments such as military inspired accents on trench coats, chiffon tops and sculpted shoulders. Despite its simplicity, the showing turned out to be one of the designer’s strongest efforts yet proving less is indeed more.
Layered Up – For fall 2012, Rag & Bone designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville focused on layering with a strong, almost androgynous offering of outerwear in a dark color palette complementary to the winter season. Making this one of the duo’s most tailored collections to date, models walked down the runway in sharply suited jackets, eclectic prints and tapered pants. Despite this polished front, the Rag & Bone DNA was ever-present with sporty pieces featuring metallic fabrics, hooded coats and two-toned pants for a sleek and modern fall outing.
Dream of Couture – Giambattista Valli played with hard and soft elements for his sophomore haute couture collection presented in Paris this week. Feminine touches of lace, flowers and sequins are juxtaposed with streamlined silhouettes for spring. Valli even included outerwear with sheer capes and a more embellished take on a sixties housecoat. Models also wore large floral hair ornaments to match stunning gowns in hues of plum, fuchsia, ivory and black.
Balenciaga Kids – Balenciaga taps a cast of model newcomers for its spring 2012 campaign shot by Steven Meisel. The new season features Juliane Gruner, Laura Kampman, Rosie Tapner and Kirstin Liljegren in a disarrayed hotel room setting. Styled by Marie-Amelie Sauvé, spring’s rigid silhouettes and clean lines are juxtaposed with messy hair by Guido Paulo smudged eyes by Pat McGrath.