Kane’s Darkly Beautiful Fall – Christopher Kane seemed to be in a dark mood for his fall 2012 collection presented on Monday during London Fashion Week. Opening with pinstripe dresses in black and white, it set the tone for a gloomy color palette of plum, burgundy, royal blue and black. A certain change from spring’s neon hues, a dark scheme did not necessarily mean that the collection was missing exciting details with deep necklines, leopard spots, innovative textiles and eastern inspired prints. For warmer pieces, Kane looked towards heavy knitted sweaters, knee-length coats and furry jackets.
Ladylike Edge – Taking the slot as the final major show of New York Fashion Week, Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa presented a mix of ladylike silhouettes with a modern edge for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Known for its minimal appeal, the new season focused on dramatic, hourglass shapes in hues of coral, black, wheat and ash grey. Lush materials of mohair, tweed, leather, wool and shearling were matched with metallic belts cinched at the waist. Beauty also coincided with the severe clothing as models took to the runway in slicked back hair and understated makeup.
Proenza Schouler’s Cool Woman – After spring’s secretarial inspired fashion, Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough focused on modern, Japanese inspired silhouettes for fall 2012. Models hit the runway in androgynous shapes with asymmetrical necklines and skin-baring hemlines. A color palette of pure white graduated into electric blue, burgundy and crimson red hues matched with Eastern patterns. A story of contrast, Proenza’s protagonist was elegant yet sporty, modern yet classic, youthful yet mature for the new season.
Sui’s Delightful Fall – Anna Sui continued to reign as one of New York Fashion Week’s most whimsical designers with her fall 2012 collection featuring playful prints, youthful shapes and owl caps. Overlooking the more quirky elements, however, the showing also delivered solid fashion featuring divine color and fabric combinations ranging from fuchsia silks to olive-green velvets. Light layers with a hint of 60′s flavor dominated the runway with large kaftans, tweed skirts and faux fur coats.
Mendel’s Glam Fall – For fall 2012, J. Mendel offered slinky gowns, lush fur coats and tweed dresses for the new season. Grounded in ash, black, ivory, champagne and amethyst hues–autumn had a romantic levity despite the dark color palette. Designer Giles Mendel also offered shorter hemlines with flirty, above the knee skirts matched with furry vests. For the finale, model Kati Nescher closed the show in a completely sheer number adorned with patchwork-like patterns.
Kors’ Casual Luxury – For fall 2012, Michael Kors offered up a relaxed sense of luxury with a strong opening of tartan, plaid and tweed. This season, Kors focused on layering with heavy blanket coats and fluid dresses for a contrasting effect. The color palette was simple–steeped in rich hues of crimson, inky black, chocolate and camel. As the show progressed, the clothing became more sophisticated and tailored with cinched waists and fur-embellished coats. For the finale, Kors ended on a sensual note with sparkling and slinky gowns reminiscent of an era gone by.
Jewels for Autumn – Despite the autumn-winter season, Oscar de la Renta chose a jovial color palette of sky blue, powder pink and neutrals for his fall 2012 collection presented yesterday. Alongside the usual elegance from de la Renta, the showing was dominated by light layering, ladylike hemlines just above the knee and jewel prints made of actual photographs. Models also had jewels decorating their hair with crystal-encrusted headbands. Luxurious fabrics of silk, fur, lace, chiffon and cashmere brought a playful ambiance to the new season.
Charm School by Marc – The fall 2012 collection of Marc Jacobs’ wearable offshoot line–Marc by Marc Jacobs–featured a parade of school girl inspired ensembles complete with pleated skirts, modest sweaters and no-fuss dresses. The color palette was grounded in traditional colors of black, red, navy and sapphire. Prints ranged from tartan to stripes to floral. For outerwear, Jacobs also played with bulky shapes reminiscent of his mainline show but with a less severe outcome.
Slip into Fall – For fall 2012, Vera Wang embraced slinky silhouettes in autumn hues of wheat, marmalade, blue and ink black. The new season offered lightweight layers with a sensual, skin baring appeal in the form of sheer fabrics. As for outerwear, the coats presented were fur-embellished with geometric prints for an androgynous contrast. For the finale, Wang matched crystal-adorned bodices with airy fabric for an almost bohemian effect.
Four of a Kind – Dazed & Confused taps up and comers Kati Nescher, Frida Aasen, Erjona Ala and Lara Mullen for four covers featuring the magazine’s newly designed layout. The quartet wears spring looks ranging from masculine to feminine to unconventional. With four to choose from, which cover is your favorite?