The Reign of Burberry – For fall 2012, Burberry chief creative officer Christopher Bailey continued to focus on the label’s own brand of elegance with a showing of modern outerwear. Using a color palette of neutrals with accents of olive-green, amber, plum and teal; the Burberry woman stands out with the season’s strong silhouettes and detailing. Tailored coats paired with flared skirts and ruched bow belts bring a flirty edge to the structural shapes. Rich fabrics of silk, velvet, wool and lace juxtapose the balance between elegance and coolness for the upcoming autumn season.
Ladylike Edge – Taking the slot as the final major show of New York Fashion Week, Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa presented a mix of ladylike silhouettes with a modern edge for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Known for its minimal appeal, the new season focused on dramatic, hourglass shapes in hues of coral, black, wheat and ash grey. Lush materials of mohair, tweed, leather, wool and shearling were matched with metallic belts cinched at the waist. Beauty also coincided with the severe clothing as models took to the runway in slicked back hair and understated makeup.
Mendel’s Glam Fall – For fall 2012, J. Mendel offered slinky gowns, lush fur coats and tweed dresses for the new season. Grounded in ash, black, ivory, champagne and amethyst hues–autumn had a romantic levity despite the dark color palette. Designer Giles Mendel also offered shorter hemlines with flirty, above the knee skirts matched with furry vests. For the finale, model Kati Nescher closed the show in a completely sheer number adorned with patchwork-like patterns.
Kors’ Casual Luxury – For fall 2012, Michael Kors offered up a relaxed sense of luxury with a strong opening of tartan, plaid and tweed. This season, Kors focused on layering with heavy blanket coats and fluid dresses for a contrasting effect. The color palette was simple–steeped in rich hues of crimson, inky black, chocolate and camel. As the show progressed, the clothing became more sophisticated and tailored with cinched waists and fur-embellished coats. For the finale, Kors ended on a sensual note with sparkling and slinky gowns reminiscent of an era gone by.
Jewels for Autumn – Despite the autumn-winter season, Oscar de la Renta chose a jovial color palette of sky blue, powder pink and neutrals for his fall 2012 collection presented yesterday. Alongside the usual elegance from de la Renta, the showing was dominated by light layering, ladylike hemlines just above the knee and jewel prints made of actual photographs. Models also had jewels decorating their hair with crystal-encrusted headbands. Luxurious fabrics of silk, fur, lace, chiffon and cashmere brought a playful ambiance to the new season.
Rodarte’s Retro Inspired Fall – Rodarte sisters Laura and Kate Mullavey brought a more mature, refined touch to their dreamy designs with the label’s fall 2012 show presented earlier today during New York Fashion Week. Taking a cue from 40s inspired silhouettes, the duo chose a subdued palette of nude, marmalade and burgundy for the new season. Leather and shearling brought a hard edge to the romantic designs in the form of aviator style jackets. Gowns were adorned in Swavorski crystals, referencing a more feminine touch.
Donna Karan’s Strong Suiting – Last season it was the country of Haiti that inspired Donna Karan’s namesake line, and for fall 2012 it is the confidence and allure of woman–even in the menswear dominated field of suiting–which influenced the American designer’s latest collection. A color palette of grey, red and black was offered on the runway with models donning pinstripes, mohair and jersey in sharply tailored shapes. Outerwear also had a masculine influence made of boxy silhouettes and strong shoulders. Saving a sense of ultra-femininity until the end, Karan closed the show with drapey silhouettes that showcased bare arms and legs in slinky fabric.
The Layered Lady – For fall 2012, Carolina Herrera embraced a story of layering complete with a cool palette of navy, robin egg blue, ash, eggplant and black. The new season introduced lengthened silhouettes, cozy cowls and abstract prints. Touches of fur, tweed and sequins brought a certain amount of lavishness to the sensible silhouettes. For the finale look, Herrera delivered drama in the form of a coral ball gown worn by model Aymeline Valade.
Lam’s Classic Fall – Derek Lam’s fall 2012 collection had all the trappings of a classic, American sportswear outing with tapered trousers, chunky knitwear and kitschy prints on display for the upcoming season. Models hit the runway in slightly mussed beehives reflecting the sixties feel of the designs featuring wearable yet luxurious outerwear made of leather, lambskin and wool. Lam also lengthened his hemlines for fall, culminating in a modest and effortlessly chic black ensemble worn by model Katryn Kruger for the finale.
Wu’s Armored Lady – Jason Wu delivered strict elegance with an homage to his Chinese roots for his fall 2012 show presented earlier today during New York Fashion Week. Form-fitting yet ladylike silhouettes hit the catwalk with sportswear undertones in the form of belted coats and capes. Military inspired jackets were accented with brocade, tassels and Swarovski crystals for a glamorous twist. Fall brought out a tougher, sleeker outing than what we would expect with high slits, leather and luxurious furs.