Raf’s Farewell to Jil Sander – With news of Raf Simons’ departure from Jil Sander hitting this week (and a possible move to Dior), fall 2012 marks the last season that the Belgian designer will be known as creative director of the German label. It only seems fitting that his final season featured an expert showing of minimal, ladylike clothing which the house has become well-known for while under his direction. A color palette of powder pink, nude, ivory, scarlet and black set a classically refined tone for the new season. Simons also introduced his own take on well-known shapes with a play on proportion and color.
As one chapter closes, another one opens. Designer Jil Sander is set to take over her namesake label once again with Simons’ departure, and it will certainly be interesting to see what her vision is for the label’s future.
Farhi’s London Woman – For fall 2012, Nicole Farhi chose to make clothes for the modern woman with a moody outing of tailored jackets, form-fitting skirts and elegant dresses. A far cry from last season’s pastel hues–autumn was all about sleek, streamlined silhouettes in shades of dark emerald, black, ivory and bronze. The heavy outerwear was paired with thin belts around the waist, charcoal stockings and leather gloves. Farhi embellished the strong shapes with glittering sequins and paillettes, bringing a glamorous edge to the structured shapes.
Mendel’s Glam Fall – For fall 2012, J. Mendel offered slinky gowns, lush fur coats and tweed dresses for the new season. Grounded in ash, black, ivory, champagne and amethyst hues–autumn had a romantic levity despite the dark color palette. Designer Giles Mendel also offered shorter hemlines with flirty, above the knee skirts matched with furry vests. For the finale, model Kati Nescher closed the show in a completely sheer number adorned with patchwork-like patterns.
Posen’s Eastern Fall – For fall 2012, Zac Posen transformed his signature evening wear looks into something a bit more Eastern inspired with models wearing high chignons and novel prints. Dramatic fishtail and mermaid silhouettes dominated the runway detailed with kimono-like belts. Shoulders held a strong shape, showcasing big, powerful folds of origami influence. Styled in bright red lips, look-at-me jewelry and fur coats; the Posen woman is certainly someone who will make an entrance for autumn.
Gurung’s Sumptuous Fall – For fall 2012, Prabal Gurung presented an array of form-fitting, body hugging silhouettes in a deep palette of electric blue, gold and black. Continuing a use of psychedelic prints, this season also gave way to rich metallic fabrics, sumptuous leather and feather adorned gowns. Luxe coats and sweaters served as outerwear for fall with puffy sleeves and gloves. Overall, Gurung showcased an eclectic collection–part light and part dark–which ranged from traditional sportswear to stunning gowns.
Hey Boy! Hey Girl! – Net-a-Porter’s online ‘zine captures the fall trend of masculine and feminine style with Alla Kostromicheva donning androgynous looks. Photographed by Lachlan Bailey, Alla sports the evening ready designs of Alexander McQueen, Versace, Christopher Kane and others selected by Vickie Keeble.
Color Feast – Exit Magazine focuses on colors and prints with model Alla Kostromicheva in the spotlight. Captured by Willem Jaspert’s lens and outfitted by Sam Ranger, Alla shows off her personality in designs from the likes of Gucci, Stella McCartney, Burberry and Christopher Kane.