Rodarte’s Retro Inspired Fall – Rodarte sisters Laura and Kate Mullavey brought a more mature, refined touch to their dreamy designs with the label’s fall 2012 show presented earlier today during New York Fashion Week. Taking a cue from 40s inspired silhouettes, the duo chose a subdued palette of nude, marmalade and burgundy for the new season. Leather and shearling brought a hard edge to the romantic designs in the form of aviator style jackets. Gowns were adorned in Swavorski crystals, referencing a more feminine touch.
The Mad Hatter – For fall 2012, Marc Jacobs teamed up with milliner Stephen Jones to help envision his latest collection filled with oversize and floppy hats that could easily belong to Alice in Wonderland’s Mad Hatter. Playing with the fairytale theme, Jacobs offered a fantastical play on proportions in the form of bulky skirts and jackets layered expertly for the autumn season. The color palette was steeped in moody hues with accents of gold, powder pink and lilac. Patterns ranged from paisley to floral which broke up the heavy silhouettes with levity. The show ended on a more subdued note, featuring a few pared down ensembles that lengthened in hemlines and flattened in shape.
Donna Karan’s Strong Suiting – Last season it was the country of Haiti that inspired Donna Karan’s namesake line, and for fall 2012 it is the confidence and allure of woman–even in the menswear dominated field of suiting–which influenced the American designer’s latest collection. A color palette of grey, red and black was offered on the runway with models donning pinstripes, mohair and jersey in sharply tailored shapes. Outerwear also had a masculine influence made of boxy silhouettes and strong shoulders. Saving a sense of ultra-femininity until the end, Karan closed the show with drapey silhouettes that showcased bare arms and legs in slinky fabric.
The Layered Lady – For fall 2012, Carolina Herrera embraced a story of layering complete with a cool palette of navy, robin egg blue, ash, eggplant and black. The new season introduced lengthened silhouettes, cozy cowls and abstract prints. Touches of fur, tweed and sequins brought a certain amount of lavishness to the sensible silhouettes. For the finale look, Herrera delivered drama in the form of a coral ball gown worn by model Aymeline Valade.
Hilfiger’s Town and Country Fall – Tommy Hilfiger’s fall 2012 collection named, “Town and Country”, brought together a marriage of luxurious outerwear and leisurely silhouettes on the runway yesterday. This collection had two halves of a whole–the first featured relaxed shapes in the form of slinky dresses and sweaters, while the other honed in on the military trend which seems to be a popular influence for the upcoming autumn. The color palette also embraced rich autumn tones of burgundy, navy, chartreuse and black. With each passing season, it appears that Hilfiger’s prep chic girl is growing up into a sophisticated woman and fall 2012 is no exception.
Wang’s Pared Down Fall – After last season’s array of prints and racing motifs, Alexander Wang chose a more pared down approach for his fall 2012 show featuring an all-star cast including Gisele Bundchen, Shalom Harlow, Frankie Rayder and Karolina Kurkova amongst others. This season went back to Wang’s roots albeit a tad more polished with leather coats, netted masks which covered models’ lower faces and knitted sweaters. The collection was minimal with a focus on embellishments such as military inspired accents on trench coats, chiffon tops and sculpted shoulders. Despite its simplicity, the showing turned out to be one of the designer’s strongest efforts yet proving less is indeed more.
Gurung’s Sumptuous Fall – For fall 2012, Prabal Gurung presented an array of form-fitting, body hugging silhouettes in a deep palette of electric blue, gold and black. Continuing a use of psychedelic prints, this season also gave way to rich metallic fabrics, sumptuous leather and feather adorned gowns. Luxe coats and sweaters served as outerwear for fall with puffy sleeves and gloves. Overall, Gurung showcased an eclectic collection–part light and part dark–which ranged from traditional sportswear to stunning gowns.
Makeup Your Mind – Frida Gustavsson plays the role of fashion victim with a daring mix of rockabilly fashion, heavy lashes and lip liner for the February edition of Elle Sweden. Photographed by Andreas Sjodin with styling by fashion editor Lisa Lindqwister, Frida bucks the trends in casual looks of denim, lace, knits and leather. / Makeup by Ignacio Alonso
Valentino’s Demure Couture – Valentino under designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picciol has found its own voice throughout the years and spring 2012 haute couture is no exception with a collection of demure romanticism. This season showcased florals, lace, and crystal embellished bodices, all made with the utmost attention to detail. Like many shows this haute couture season, the color palette was light–showcasing silvers, powdery blue and rosy pink for a feminine touch.
Gaultier’s Ode to Amy – Walking to his own beat, Jean Paul Gaultier did not present an array of gowns for his spring 2012 haute couture show, but instead offered an ode to late singer Amy Winehouse with a collection of tailored jackets, form-fitting skirts and bustiers. Models wore Winehouse’s signature beehive and had cigarettes in hand as they strutted down the runway with the singer’s tunes playing in the background. The color palette was a somber black with splashes of citrus and lime to reveal lacy undergarments, silk dresses and belted waists.