Stella McCartney created “understated seduction” for her spring 2014 collection. Relaxed shapes, embroidered lingerie-inspired dresses and sporty separates all defined the new season. Floral prints bring a slightly romantic vibe to McCartney’s spring. Top models Miranda Kerr and Cara Delevingne were tapped for the runway show.
Saint Laurent: Rock Spring – If last season was Hedi Slimane’s grunge collection, the spring 2014 season for Saint Laurent can be dubbed the French fashion house’s eighties moment. The designer referenced power dressing style with boxy cut jackets, menswear inspired suits paired with skinny ties and form-fitting leather skirts. The Le Smoking Jacket which the Saint Laurent name is famous for was incorporated in a rock and roll style, worn with skinny pants and sheer shirts. Dresses featured Paris Fashion Week’s metallic trend; finished with one shoulder in a dramatic and voluminous fashion. With his third runway show, Slimane’s vision for Saint Laurent is proving to be all about the cool factor and youthful style.
McCartney’s Understated Seduction – With a show opened by Miranda Kerr, the spring 2014 collection from Stella McCartney is a lesson in understated fashion; proving you can make great clothes with a no fuss attitude. The British designer’s unique take on sportswear results in a selection of easy silhouettes, often showcased with a focus on texture–handwork embroidery, jacquards and organza all decorate McCartney’s separates and dresses. The color palette reads daywear while there are sporty undertones with matching jackets and slouchy trousers. The last section gets dedicated to ultra-feminine looks with lightweight dresses made of lace and silk complete with racer-backs.
Elie Saab’s Natural High – A lace garden. That is the theme of Elie Saab’s spring-summer 2014 collection shown earlier today during Paris Fashion Week. The designer’s signature romanticism and feminine embellishments were on full display with an outing of botanical prints and lace frills adorning everything from gowns to tops. The color palette also reflects an outdoorsy sentiment with a mix of eglantine rose, bougainvillea and verdant green. Not everything is light and ethereal though; the Saab woman gets glam in sparkling gemstone decorated gowns for evening-wear. The final section of the collection introduces black, evoking midnight seduction with full skirts and bustier tops nipped at the waist.
Giambattista Valli’s Light Spring – Focused on daywear, the spring-summer 2014 collection from Giambattista Valli featured the Italian designer’s signature embellishments but were toned down for a light and romantic outing. Sheer dresses which opened at the navel, crop tops and short-shorts bring a luxe ease to the new season. Yet, despite this lightness, the Valli woman’s upcoming spring is far from minimal. Skirts with folded pleats, tridimensional flower appliqué and gold, corn-stalk embroidery offer the rich textures of the season. The color palette is as equally dreamy as the designs, with light neutrals, pastels and ochre defining spring.
Riccardo Tisci infused a tribal aesthetic into Givenchy’s spring collection. Romantic draping, metal fabrics and earthy colors were a major focus of the new season. Prints were minimized compared to past seasons and the result was a spring outing rooted in a focus on design.
Givenchy’s Tribal Spring – For Givenchy’s spring 2014 collection, Riccardo Tisci moved away from the Bambi prints of last season for something more subtle. The result was an outing of modern elegance with an undercurrent of tribal influence stemming from the Asian and African continents. The Givenchy woman embraces an earthy color palette for spring; shades of brown, green and deep red were splashed over draped fabrics. The metallic trend which has made a number of appearances during Paris Fashion Week took shape in the form of shiny separates or gleaming gowns. Accessories were similarly tribal influenced; flat sandals and sequin-adorned bags folded in square-ish shapes had a no-fuss attitude.
Kenzo: Back to Blue – Inspired by the ocean and open water for spring 2014, Kenzo designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim showcased a collection of sea colors and patterns for their latest outing. Since taking over in 2012, the design duo has introduced a new energy and youthfulness to the brand and it was evident in the new season’s contemporary, slightly street inspired clothing. Various shades of blue, monochrome black and white, and scarlet red dominated the spring color palette.
The water reference even got literal with crop tops and skirts ending in wave-shaped finishes. Jackets embraced boxy shoulders while trousers and skirts are cropped at the calf and sometimes feature slits. On her feet, the Kenzo woman wears heeled sandals while carrying large, oversized clutches made with prints which match her clothing.
Celine Goes Abstract – Normally known for her restraint and minimalism, Celine creative director Phoebe Philo did away with the understated and went for a more maximalist approach at the label’s spring 2014 presentation. The designer cited Italian photographer Brassai as inspiration for the prints, evoking the images of graffiti he took in the 1930s. The display of color felt surreal with large strokes decorating dresses, tops and even coats. Still, there was some glimpse of Celine’s minimal signature with comparatively plain dresses layered over pleated and sheer skirts. The Celine woman’s accessories for spring include sculptural-like jewelry, slip-on shoe styles and oversized clutches decorated with raffia strips.
Chloe’s Desert Spring – For Chloe’s spring 2014 collection, creative director Clare Waight Keller delivered an outing that was perfectly Chloe–a balance struck between feminine refinement and Parisian cool. There were also Middle Eastern undertones to the new season with a large selection of flowing dresses, long tunics and a sandy color palette. Dresses are crinkled and ruched while separates have a slightly boyish charm in the form of relaxed sweaters and trousers. The Chloe’s woman accessories include the Baylee bag which is folded and made handheld for the upcoming spring and fringe-adorned wedges in neutral tones.