Hermès Fall 2014–Closing out the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Hermès’ Christophe Lemaire presented a fall-winter 2014 collection with a menswear-inspired slant. Loose tailoring dominates suits, long coats and slouchy pants in a moody color palette of grey, brown, yellow and orange that plays into the autumnal season. Elsewhere, the Hermès woman dons nearly ankle length skirts and dresses in flowing fabrics that keeps with the collection’s theme of a relaxed silhouette. Fur makes an appearance as long vests or luxe trims while leather is embraced in black trenches, dresses and thin belts.
Miu Miu Fall 2014–Taking a cue from the athletic trend, the Miu Miu girl gets sporty for the brand’s fall-winter 2014 collection presented during the final day of Paris Fashion Week. Miuccia Prada sent out an array of pastel colored ski jackets in metallic finishes, flirty miniskirts and nylon vests bringing an air of seventies sportswear to the autumn outing. The shape of the coats are oversized and boxy but maintain a sex appeal with peek-a-boo bras worn underneath lightweight tops. Finishing the look, the Miu Miu girl dons see-through PVC boots and spiked heels as well as a small and diminutive bag finished in metallic and featuring a bold silver buckle set against a bright primary color.
Louis Vuitton Fall 2014–Marking his first collection at the helm of Louis Vuitton, artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière, made his vision for the brand known with a sleek and contemporary collection for fall-winter 2014. His predecessor Marc Jacobs was known for featuring elaborate sets to go along with his designs–models on carousels, models on escalators or an Orient Express inspired train, but Ghesquière kept the setting simple at the Louvre’s Cour Carrée venue with no decoration save for industrial blinds which were opened to flood sunshine on the runway.
Could this mean a new day at Louis Vuitton? Yes it does. The silhouette this season features high-waisted short A-line skirts paired with long-sleeve or sleeveless tops in futuristic, optical prints. In glossy or matte finishes, there is something quite modern about the look in shades of burgundy, mustard, brown and cerulean. The Louis Vuitton woman’s accessory of choice is a small and diminutive bag shaped like a mini luggage trunk and monogrammed with the LV logo–connecting Ghesquière’s modern eye to the brand’s heritage.
Alexander McQueen Fall 2014–After last season’s tribal warrior, the fall-winter 2014 collection from Alexander McQueen returned to the Elizabethan silhouettes that have become familiar to the brand under Sarah Burton. The outing of wild fur coats, pleated A-line skirts and dresses embroidered with oversized crystals has a fairy tale element–a dark fairy tale that is. There is something slightly eerie about the models twisted braids and pale painted faces juxtaposed with a black, white and purple palette. The two finale looks end on an ethereal note–long sheer gowns in ivory with eyelet details and finished in lightweight feathers give a romantic touch to the dark outing.
Valentino Fall 2014–After last season’s Opera inspired outing, Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli looked to 60s Italian pop art for the house’s fall-winter 2014 collection. Opening the new season with jackets and separates featuring multi-colored dots, it was clear that autumn was about interjecting bold prints into a wardrobe of princess perfect dresses and gowns. Diamond cuts, brocade butterflies and roses serve as the other patterns and textures of the season. The silhouette remains consistent with Chiuri and Piccioli’s vision for the Valentino woman–a floor-length gown with long sleeves in lightweight silk, sometimes worn underneath a cape or an embroidered coat.
Chanel Fall 2014–Set against a backdrop of a supermarket complete with a fruits, canned goods and a liquor aisle, the fall-winter 2014 collection from Chanel takes on luxury consumerism in an age of casual style. Continuing where the spring couture show left off, Karl Lagerfeld presented another high fashion take on the sneaker shoe. This time the models hit the catwalk in colorful sneakers adorned with tweed as well as versions in knee-high lengths. Handbags also bring a luxurious spin to grocery store items. Mini shopping baskets featuring locks with Chanel logos and chains changeover to quilted bags packaged like meat you would find in the frozen section. As for the clothes, there is a balance of luxury and a sporty vibe. Tops feature cinched waists paired with slouchy trousers in metallic fabric or tweed.
Saint Laurent Fall 2014–Following a season of grunge and then one with eighties rocker influence, Saint Laurent’s Hedi Slimane looked to the sixties mod movement for the brand’s fall-winter 2014 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week this Monday. Of the era’s signatures, there are A-line skirts, mini shift dresses as well as a modern take on the swing coat in moody plaids. Outerwear is cut slim for the most part while the Saint Laurent girl wears either a Mary Jane or knee-high boot on her feet. As with the spring, shimmer is an important feature of the lineup whether with metallic silver boots or shiny paillette embroidered dresses.
Elie Saab Fall 2014–After a season of botanical garden splendor, the theme for Elie Saab’s fall-winter 2014 collection is dark opulence. Inspired by the work of American painter Mark Rothko, who is well-known for his abstract expressionist pieces, the autumn season focuses on sleek and sexy shapes intertwined with the house’s signature femininity. Dresses and gowns cling to the female form in sumptuous fabrics including velvet, crepe and silk chiffon as well as cashmere and mink. The Saab woman dazzles not only with her sequin adorned evening wear, but also with her accessories. Fine jewelry pieces featuring precious gems and handbags in rich jewel tones add a glamorous touch to the upcoming fall.
Giambattista Valli Fall 2014–While last season Giambattista Valli embraced a floral garden, the Italian designer’s fall-winter 2014 collection focused on abstract prints and textures for an superbly ladylike outing. The silhouette this season plays with a sculptural shape without being too over bearing. Cocoon-like skirts and coats which cut off above the knee bring a flirty take to Valli’s red, oxblood, blush-tone and black and white designs. Fabrics feature delicate lace, bold metallics and rich brocades that while romantic are also perfectly grownup. The bag of choice for fall is a boxy tote finished in an exotic skin with a circular emblem decorating the front.
Stella McCartney Fall 2014–Easy tailoring is in the very DNA of the Stella McCartney woman, and for the designer’s fall-winter 2014 collection, she presented an outing of trousers and outerwear with a sporty attitude. Shapes are slouchy even when it comes to suiting which has the unexpected addition of stirrup pants in a slim but not quite legging cut. Along with autumn’s oversized and rounded-shoulder coats, the Stella McCartney woman also wears embroidered separates featuring squiggly curves of rope for a whimsical touch to her wardrobe. Fringe decorated dresses which drape around the body in red, blue and green end the collection on a feminine note. The chunky mannish shoe, however, brings the look right back to practicality.