Calvin Klein Pre-Fall 2014 – For its pre-fall 2014 collection, Calvin Klein creative director Francisco Costa’s understated luxury was out in full force with a showing of cool yet elegant outerwear in light shades of grey, pewter and rare rosy tones. The silhouette for the season is loose-fitting and long with double-breasted coats, cozy cardigans and lingerie-inspired slip dresses. On her feet, the Calvin Klein woman wears slippers and ankle strap heels complementing the soft materials of cashmere, shearling, alpaca and wool for pre-fall.
Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli created a spring season inspired by the costumes of the Rome Opera House. Regal embellishments and ladylike silhouettes brought a romantic take to Paris Fashion Week.
Marc Jacobs presented his last show for Louis Vuitton with the spring-summer season. In mostly black, the collection focused on embellished jackets and dresses with dark feathers, jet beads and embroidered rosettes. Elaborate headpieces gave the models a gothic showgirl look.
Hermès’ Spring Ease – Languid elegance is how one could describe Hermès creative director Christophe Lemaire’s spring-summer 2014 show presented during the final day of Paris Fashion Week. The silhouette is one of ease, with no fussy embellishments or volume added. Clothing for the tropics served as inspiration for the new season with colorful prints, menswear inspired shirts and slouchy pants. There was also a focus on leather in the form of long coats, suit jackets, belts and of course bags. Compared to other shows this week, the Hermès woman can almost be described as minimal but she is definitely far from bland.
Miu Miu’s Sweet Spring – For Miu Miu’s spring-summer 2014 collection, Miuccia Prada offered a youthful, almost Lolita like outing of separates with a seventies spin. One would be hard pressed to find one specific reference point in the new season, but there is certainly something sweet and whimsical about an outing of candy-colored coats, vinyl mini skirts and cable-knit leggings paired with Mary Jane heels. Prints are also girlish with colorful birds, flowers and faces adorning pieces in a cartoonish style. Sparkling beads and fringed details add a touch of glam to the quirky outing. The clash of colors and prints are a winning combination for Miu Miu’s youthful spring.
Marc Says Goodbye to Louis Vuitton – Earlier today, the news was revealed that spring-summer 2014 would be Marc Jacobs’ last season at the helm of Louis Vuitton. After serving as creative director for sixteen years, the show was almost like a mourning, quite literally actually, with a color palette of mostly black. Jacobs revisited his past collections at Vuitton with the runway show’s setting featuring carousels (spring 2012), escalators (spring 2013) and a train station clock (fall 2012).
The outing was extravagant with pieces that looked like they belonged in a gothic showgirl’s closet. Black feathers, jet beads and embroidered rosettes all decorated the many jackets and column dresses presented. Embellished cropped jackets paired with blue jeans brought a call-back to Jacobs’ American roots. Now, with the final show under his belt, Jacobs looks to focus on his own namesake brand and the fashion world awaits for the news of his successor.
Chanel creative director Karl Lagerfeld presented his own art show with the French fashion house’s spring 2014 outing. Swatch-like prints, variegated textures and ladylike tweed skirt suits all paid homage to the brand’s history while offering something new for the season.
Alexander McQueen’s Urban Warrior – For the past several seasons, Sarah Burton’s vision at Alexander McQueen has been a vaguely romantic one. With the label’s spring 2014 season, Burton takes the McQueen woman in a new direction with an outing of armor-like clothing. Tribal inspired fringes and bold patterns take over for spring in red, blue and black and white. Although a warrior, the McQueen woman also embraces her feminine side in fluffy feathers, layered and full skirts as well as detailed lacework. Hard elements like sculpted jackets, leather harnesses and silver helmets create a powerful statement for the upcoming spring.
Chanel’s Artful Spring – Art and fashion. Often the two intertwine and for Chanel’s spring 2014 collection, Karl Lagerfeld incorporated the idea of fashion as art into an outing boasting of many colors. Paying homage to the house’s signature tweed skirt suits, Lagerfeld offered variegated textures with color-blocking aspects almost like a painter’s swatch. The Chanel woman’s accessories were similarly art minded with large bags evoking the look of a painter’s portfolio while other bags featured the Chanel logos “painted” on. Even the models’ makeup reflected a creative attitude; eyeshadow was multi-colored matching the collection’s rainbow-like palette.
Valentino’s Spring Journey – Inspired by a visit to the Rome Opera workshops, Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli created an ornate spring-summer 2014 collection that takes the Italian fashion house in a new direction. With a focus on embroidery, the Valentino woman wears her signature romantic gowns with worldly details like North African-inspired patterns or vintage looking Mediterranean textures. Color is not sparse for spring, in fact the hues are the richest of rich with coral, deep red and emerald-green. With simple and relaxed silhouettes, there is a focus on embellishment. Lace decorations that are almost necklace-like, brocades texturized like crepe de chiné and wax cast jewelry all adorn the Valentino woman’s wardrobe for spring.