Valentino Fall Haute Couture – Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli look towards the stars for the fashion house’s fall 2013 haute couture collection. Clad in ornate embroidery and luxe fabrics, the Valentino woman wears patterns reminiscent of the cosmos with abstract motifs reminding us of the sun, moon and stars. The romanticism of neo-Baroque lace or jacquards gives way to more earthy pieces such as menswear-inspired wool in camel, dark grey or black tones. These simple notes make the fur-trims and crystal beaded swirl patterns all that much more dreamy for the autumn couture season.
Jean Paul Gaultier Fall Couture – Feeling in a feline mood, French designer Jean Paul Gaultier sent out a collection of big cat inspired looks for his fall 2013 haute couture collection. Known for his sense of camp, Gaultier did not shy away from color nor print with his latest couture outing. Models strutted the catwalk in body-hugging silhouettes covered in spotted fur patterns and leopard print stockings.
Gaultier also found inspiration in the clowns of cinema, citing references such as “The Clowns” by Italian director Federico Fellini as well as David Bowie’s “Ashes to Ashes” music video. The circus influence can be seen in bright, circular patterns found on dresses, cone-shaped hats and over-exaggerated trouser proportions. Still, it’s not all fun and games; Gaultier’s attention to craftsmanship is evident by the impeccable embroidery and shapes presented.
Elie Saab Fall Haute Couture – For his fall 2013 haute couture collection, Elie Saab opened with a fiery section of ruby-red gowns covered in carmine sequins. The rest of the color palette focused on jewel toned hues as well with a procession of emerald-green, amber and sapphire blue making its way on the runway. The womanly silhouettes glitter with shapes that accentuate the waist-line while gowns are draped in chiffon. Romantic as ever, the Elie Saab bride closed the show with three bridesmaids in tow, wearing a silver wedding dress evoking the light of the moon.
Ulyana Sergeenko Fall Couture – For her third haute couture collection, designer Ulyana Sergeenko found inspiration in Russian fairy tales her grandmother told to her as a child. The fall 2013 collection is dubbed, “Russian Gothic”–with influences shown in the romantic yet demure outing of capes, gowns and tailored separates. The color palette varies from dark shades of brown, beige, green and charcoal then ignites with bright red, coral, green, and gold hues. Sergeenko’s textile choices are sumptuous; including layers of organza, handmade Vologda lace, golden cannetille and Krestetsk hand embroidery. Shaved beaver trim as well as hand embroidery on the bags, gives a luxe touch to the fantasy.
Armani Prive Fall – Giorgio Armani calls Armani Privé’s fall 2013 haute couture collection simply,”Nude”, and certainly the outing of understated tans, sorbet and powder pinks gives off a “naturally bare” vibe. The autumn season graces us with thirties-influenced style filled with sheer, feathers and embroidered crystals fit for a turn of the century socialite. The diaphanous gowns are at once sensual yet pretty; a word often used to describe evening wear but could not be a better fit for Privé. The classic Armani tailoring is also out in full force with sharp jackets sometimes embellished with ostrich or lace. Armani also offers a more gloomy take on nude with the contrast of black and silvery hues which still remain romantic nonetheless.
Chanel Fall Haute Couture – Set against a futuristic skyline fit for a science fiction flick, Chanel’s fall 2013 haute couture show presented a marriage between classic and future style. Creative director Karl Lagerfeld juxtaposed the fashion house’s iconic tweeds with shiny metallics and crystal embellished separates. For autumn, the Chanel woman dons a low-slung belt with her grid-like and striped patterned dresses. Lagerfeld offered many layers for the haute couture season; showcasing models wearing demure dresses worn over pants or even longer skirts. Thigh high suede boots, a more angular take on the classic porkpie hat and sci-fi inspired metalwork were the key accessories of the season.
Giambattista Valli Fall Haute Couture – For his fall 2013 Haute Couture collection, Italian designer Giambattista Valli focused on romantic florals for an outing of ethereal femininity. Embroidered flower patterns take shape with dainty silhouettes featuring bouncy ruffles, gathered silk and bustier style dresses. A color palette of soft ivory, blue and pops of red make for a rather light fall outing; including skirts that mostly fall above the knee and sheer layers once again taking on the floral motif.
Dior Haute Couture Fall – For his third couture collection, Dior designer Raf Simons set out to encompass a global view of fashion for the house’s fall 2013 Haute Couture line. Inspiration can be seen from Europe, Asia, Africa and the Americas in the colorful outing of ladylike silhouettes. “The collection evolved to be about Dior not just being about Paris and France but about the rest of the world and how many fashion cultures impact on the house and on myself,” says Simons about the autumn season.
Eastern inspiration can be seen in re-modified kimonos while African influence takes shape in bold prints and color-blocked stripes. The fifty plus look collection certainly offers an eclectic take of couture, but there are still the Dior staples such as the classic bar jacket or a long column dress decorated with sequins.
Atelier Versace Fall – For the fall 2013 show from Atelier Versace, designer Donatella Versace tapped who else but supermodel Naomi Campbell to open and close the show. “I wanted a sexy and sophisticated woman with a strong attitude. Only a true icon like Naomi Campbell could open the show,” Versace says about the choice. Indeed, the autumn collection from Atelier has a strong yet feminine quality to it with an outing of body-hugging looks including floor-length gowns adorned with crystals or belted jackets which also glitter with jewels. The Versace woman is very distinct in lingerie-inspired tops, nude illusion skirts and metal-dipped jewel tones for the autumn couture season.
Image from Dior Haute Couture Spring 2013 Collection
Haute Couture Week is just around the corner; check out the list of brands who are showing for the fall 2013 season.
Sunday, June 30, 2013
9:00 PM Versace
Monday, July 1, 2013
11:30 AM Christophe Josse
2:30 PM Christian Dior
6:30 PM Alexis Mabille
5:30 PM Christian Dior
7:30 PM Giambattista Valli
Tuesday, July 2, 2013
10:00 AM Chanel
12:00 PM Chanel
2:30 PM Stéphane Rolland
3:30 PM Atelier Gustavolins
4:30 PM Julien Fournié
5:30 PM Giorgio Armani Privé
6:30 PM Alexandre Vauthier
7:30 PM Bouchra Jarrar
Wednesday, July 3, 2013
10:00 AM Maison Martin Margiela
11:00 AM Frank Sorbier
12:30 PM Elie Saab
2:30 PM Jean Paul Gaultier
5:00 PM Yiqing Yin
6:00 PM Valentino
7:30 PM Viktor & Rolf
Thursday, July 4, 2013
11:00 AM Rad Hourani
12:00 PM Zuhair Murad