Ricci’s Dark Elegance – For fall 2012, Nina Ricci creative director Peter Copping delivered dark elegance with an autumn color palette of inky black, plum, burgundy and ash grey dominating the runway. Despite the gothic colors, the Ricci woman was still her ladylike self with fur embellished gloves, hourglass silhouettes and modest hemlines. Lush wool coats were matched with sheer chiffon pieces and heavy knits. Using a mix of the classic and the modern, Copping managed to give the signature Ricci sophistication a slight edge for the upcoming autumn.
Balmain’s Bejeweled Fall – Marking his second season as creative director of Balmain, French designer Olivier Rousteing look towards Fabergé eggs gave to Elizabeth Taylor as inspiration for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Balmain’s signature military inspired jackets took an elegant turn in the form of pearl and gem adorned skin-tight dresses, outerwear and velvet pants. Strong shoulders brought an androgynous edge to the ultra-sexy silhouettes in neutral hues of black, nude and mint green. Despite the classic reference, Rousteing still kept Balmain’s modern edge for the upcoming autumn with razor sharp precision.
Balenciaga’s Power Dressing – Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquière sent out his own vision of 80′s power dressing with the label’s fall 2012 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. Coats with puffed-up shoulders opened the show, featuring bright dresses in electric blue and scarlet layered underneath. Metallic detailing and graphic prints brought a futuristic appeal to the strong silhouettes. Besides outerwear, the autumn season also offered mid-length skirts and slouchy trousers.
Mugler’s Insect Fall – For fall 2012, Mugler creative director Nicola Formichetti looked towards the archives for inspiration with Thierry Mugler’s 1997 “Insect” collection. The new season plays with arthropod shapes, featuring winged shoulders, furry sleeves, high slits and insect-like cut outs. A color palette of mostly black and white lets the shapes of autumn stand out. For the final section of the show, Formichetti sent out a parade of all black with lightweight hoods and sheer sleeves.
Dries’ Eastern Fall – For fall 2012, Dries Van Noten embraced an Asian inspired outing with lush coats, tailored suiting and patterned jackets influenced by designs in London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. The Van Noten woman takes her trip to the East with streamlined silhouettes and dragon or floral prints matched with fur adorned parkas. The Belgian designer’s distinct menswear influence loosened at times, providing delicate dresses and skirts in kaleidoscopic hues of citrus orange, turquoise, jade and ivory. Despite using a well-established theme, Van Noten brought something fresh and distinctly modern to the upcoming autumn.
Gianfranco Ferré’s Streamlined Fall – Designers Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi presented their second collection for Gianfranco Ferré with the label’s fall 2012 showing presented on the final day of Milan Fashion Week. The two embraced an androgynous aesthetic and used a color palette of inky black, silvery grey, navy and off white. Forgoing patterns or jewelry, the new season was all about shape with streamlined silhouettes that were modern if not futuristic. Ferré’s androgynous heroine also got a touch of glam with the use of lush fur and metallic fabrics for the upcoming autumn.
Cavalli’s Sumptuous Fall – Roberto Cavalli presented a sumptuous fall 2012 collection made of pure glamour for the final day of Milan Fashion Week. Cavalli’s vision of autumn included short dresses in jewel toned colors of emerald-green, plum, fuchsia, electric blue and burgundy. Animal prints, fur and leather gloves dominated the runway as models sported long bohemian locks matched with smokey eyes. As the show continued, Cavalli introduced maxi dresses layered underneath long overcoats. Saving the best for last, supermodel Naomi Campbell closed the show in a stunning beaded gown with a plunging neckline.
Ferragamo’s Strict Elegance – For fall 2012, Salvatore Ferragamo tempered tropical prints in exchange for black leather and lace with its latest collection previewed during Milan Fashion Week. Coats had a military inspired cut with sweeping shapes and gold accents, while skirts came in flirty shapes paired with belts in black or chocolate. As the show progressed, black transformed into plum, taupe and dark scarlet hues. Designer Massimiliano Giornetti ended on a romantic note–featuring sheer dresses with brocade detailing and billowing shapes.
Missoni’s Slinky Fall – After last season’s explosion of colors, the fall 2012 collection from Missoni muted the color palette and focused on form-fitting shapes for the new season. Designer Angela Missoni created cozy yet seductive knitwear in dreamy tones of sage green, camel, ash grey and burgundy. Accessories included thin belts above the waist, fur hats, latex gloves and boots with chunky heels. Of course, Missoni’s signature prints were also put on full display with a mix and match of luxe winter layers.
Dolce & Gabbana’s Baroque Woman – Dolce & Gabbana’s Italian glamour took a turn for bejeweled, Baroque inspired beauty with designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s fall 2012 showing presented during Milan Fashion Week. Influenced by Sicilian art work, models took to the runway in brocade and cherub tapestry prints. Accessories for the show included bejeweled headbands, gold jewelry and pearl adorned handbags. Delicate lace work was also on display with ladylike dresses that reached the knee and black veils worn like the Madonna. Bringing some sex appeal to the demure showing, Dolce sent out lingerie inspired bustiers and hot pants for a cheeky take on the Baroque influence.