Dolce & Gabbana’s Baroque Woman – Dolce & Gabbana’s Italian glamour took a turn for bejeweled, Baroque inspired beauty with designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s fall 2012 showing presented during Milan Fashion Week. Influenced by Sicilian art work, models took to the runway in brocade and cherub tapestry prints. Accessories for the show included bejeweled headbands, gold jewelry and pearl adorned handbags. Delicate lace work was also on display with ladylike dresses that reached the knee and black veils worn like the Madonna. Bringing some sex appeal to the demure showing, Dolce sent out lingerie inspired bustiers and hot pants for a cheeky take on the Baroque influence.
Max Mara Goes Under Cover for Fall – Max Mara presented an array of lush, military inspired coats for its fall 2012 collection presented during Milan Fashion Week. Following an understated color scheme of tan, army green, off white and inky black; the Max Mara woman is looking for luxury in the simple things such as slouchy jumpers or floor length coats. The new season is all about layering–from stiff collared jackets matched with striped pajama wear to slinky dresses matched with tweed shorts–these looks strike a chord between the masculine and feminine for autumn with an expert ease.
Ralph Lauren’s Dapper and Divine Fall – On the final day of New York Fashion Week, Ralph Lauren presented a fall 2012 collection of refined glamour inspired by English aristocrats in autumn hues of navy, black, grey, plum and gold accents. The first section focused on menswear inspired pantsuits with dapper tailoring and newspaper boy hats softened by feminine curves and eclectic patterns. As the show progressed, the garments became more feminine featuring slinky gowns in long and fluid shapes of satin and velvet. A bit of glitz appeared in the form of sparkling sequins and ostrich feathers, culminating in a stunning finale gown of gold lamé worn by model Olga Sherer.
Proenza Schouler’s Cool Woman – After spring’s secretarial inspired fashion, Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough focused on modern, Japanese inspired silhouettes for fall 2012. Models hit the runway in androgynous shapes with asymmetrical necklines and skin-baring hemlines. A color palette of pure white graduated into electric blue, burgundy and crimson red hues matched with Eastern patterns. A story of contrast, Proenza’s protagonist was elegant yet sporty, modern yet classic, youthful yet mature for the new season.
Philosophy’s Demure Fall – Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti took on classic staples for fall 2012 with a hint of 60′s flair thrown in as well. A light color palette ranging from champagne to silvery grey to ivory set the tone for the new season which focused on demure, ladylike elegance. An offshoot line from Alberta Ferretti, the collection offered crystal embellished tops, form-fitting dresses and a modified trench belted at the waist. Star of the mainline label’s spring 2012 campaign, Daria Strokous, closed the show in a full coat paired with a delicately sheer dress.
Donna Karan’s Strong Suiting – Last season it was the country of Haiti that inspired Donna Karan’s namesake line, and for fall 2012 it is the confidence and allure of woman–even in the menswear dominated field of suiting–which influenced the American designer’s latest collection. A color palette of grey, red and black was offered on the runway with models donning pinstripes, mohair and jersey in sharply tailored shapes. Outerwear also had a masculine influence made of boxy silhouettes and strong shoulders. Saving a sense of ultra-femininity until the end, Karan closed the show with drapey silhouettes that showcased bare arms and legs in slinky fabric.
Altuzarra’s Traveling Woman – For fall 2012, Joseph Altuzarra explored a fusion of French and Moroccan style with a showcase of tailored jackets, relaxed trousers and Middle Eastern inspired prints. This season offered up a naval influence with decorated coats and dresses covered in silver medallions like souvenirs from one’s sea travels. The Paris meets Marrakesh affair resulted in a polished display of outerwear paired with mid-length skirts which ooze modern luxury for the upcoming autumn.
Gurung’s Sumptuous Fall – For fall 2012, Prabal Gurung presented an array of form-fitting, body hugging silhouettes in a deep palette of electric blue, gold and black. Continuing a use of psychedelic prints, this season also gave way to rich metallic fabrics, sumptuous leather and feather adorned gowns. Luxe coats and sweaters served as outerwear for fall with puffy sleeves and gloves. Overall, Gurung showcased an eclectic collection–part light and part dark–which ranged from traditional sportswear to stunning gowns.
Layered Up – For fall 2012, Rag & Bone designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville focused on layering with a strong, almost androgynous offering of outerwear in a dark color palette complementary to the winter season. Making this one of the duo’s most tailored collections to date, models walked down the runway in sharply suited jackets, eclectic prints and tapered pants. Despite this polished front, the Rag & Bone DNA was ever-present with sporty pieces featuring metallic fabrics, hooded coats and two-toned pants for a sleek and modern fall outing.
The Power of Three – Model Sui He, actress Li Bing Bing and it girl Chen Ran are tapped for Lane Crawford’s spring 2012 campaign, shot by Mert & Marcus. Styled by Panos Yiapanis, the trio shows off different personalities in sleek designs from the likes of Azzedine Alaïa, Alexander McQueen, Alexander Wang, Balenciaga and Céline available in the fashion retailer’s store. The advertisements are centered on the modern woman with bold statement pieces of the season. / Make-up by Charlotte Tilbury, Hair by Paul Hanlon