Christopher Kane’s Petal Power – For his spring 2014 collection, Scottish designer Christopher Kane found his inspiration in flowers and more specifically, petals. Opening with a section of dresses and sweaters adorned with metallic outlined, tear-drop shaped cutouts; it was clear that Kane was looking towards the future in the form of streamlined silhouettes and shiny fabrics. As the show progressed, the floral influence took a literal turn with sweaters and dresses that read “FLOWER” or “PETAL” in all cap lettering. The botanical motif also made an appearance on pantsuits and dresses in the form of crystal pendants scattered across the silhouette. Kane also offered more pared down looks such as draped dresses in twenties shapes or jacket and skirt combinations.
Burberry’s English Roses – The spring 2014 collection from Burberry Prorsum was dubbed “English Rose”, and the outing of pretty pastels and romantic floral embellishments explained the name perfectly. Creative chief officer Christopher Bailey gave the Burberry woman a soft and feminine wardrobe of cashmere, lace, suede and silk with a color palette of rosy pink, mint, mauve and periwinkle blue. The trench coat was updated this season with crystal adornments in circular shapes. Pencil skirts and slouchy jackets in boyish shapes also made an appearance on the runway.
Williamson’s Spring Brights – Matthew Williamson’s signature vibrant hues were out in full force for his spring 2014 collection which opened with a selection of bright fuchsia and coral hues. The designer struck a balance between cool and ladylike for the new season with a play on sheer and embellishments. Psychedelic swirls, hand drawn floral patterns and shimmering crystals provide some texture to the feminine silhouettes. Williamson offered some boyish pieces with loose-fitting trousers, jackets and mens shirts.
Hill Says Goodbye to Mulberry – After six years at helm of Mulberry, creative director Emma Hill presented her final collection for the brand’s spring 2014 runway show at London Fashion Week. The outing was elegant yet practical with a color palette of basic black and white infused with touches of red, nude and blue. Hill celebrated inherently English themes such as tea parties, estate gardens and even bull dogs with her playfully demure looks. The Mulberry woman was feminine in bold flower motifs yet restrained in leather dresses and boxy tops. Large stripes in loose-fitting shirt and skirt combinations brought an ease to Hill’s sophisticated designs.
Katrantzou’s Accessorized Spring – For Mary Katrantzou, it’s all about shoes for her eponymous label’s spring 2014 collection. A highlight of London Fashion Week for her use of digital prints, the Greek designer looked towards what is worn on the feet for inspiration this season. The prints were made with images of footwear by distorting and amplifying photographs sometimes as much by two hundred percent.
For day wear, mens brogues and sporty trainers are blown up for colorful prints worn in streamlined silhouettes and cocoon-like shapes. Evening wear is polished and elegant; influence is taken from eighteenth century evening slippers as shown by the final section’s embroidered silk adorned with Swarovski crystals, ribbons and mirrors. The short and sweet dresses in fluorescent pink, blue, green and yellow hues added a romantic element to the spring season.
Topshop’s Worldly Bohemian – For its spring 2014 collection, Topshop Unique embraces bohemian style with an outing of worldly prints, relaxed silhouettes and romantic embellishments. A color palette of rich jewel tones such as emerald, sapphire blue and amber evokes the summer season. Besides what one would expect from a bohemian collection like maxi-length dresses and pretty prints, the Unique woman also lets out her artistic side with oversized, menswear inspired shirts and lightweight knits layered on top of wide-legged prints. Topshop Unique tapped one of Britain’s biggest exports, Cara Delevingne, to close the show in a white dress adorned with colored mirror pieces.
Fast’s Raver Girls – Mark Fast displayed the edgy side of knitwear for his spring 2014 collection shown at London Fashion Week’s second day. Citing inspiration like nineties club kids and Nine Inch Nails, the runway focused on sensual shapes and a rock ‘n’ roll attitude with models sporting teased black wigs. Midriff baring sweaters, fringe embellished skirts and peekaboo cutouts in grey, yellow and green hues added a sporty touch to the raver-inspired knits.
Koma’s Woman Warrior – Inspired by the Japanese samurai, David Koma presented a structured outing for his eponymous label’s spring 2014 collection. The new season focused on strict lines and geometric shapes with color-blocking elements in black, white and electric blue. The Georgian designer’s signature body conscious dresses were out in full force; leather and bonded neoprene curved into A-line skirts and asymmetrical folds with a slightly sporty attitude. Tying into his samurai inspiration, the Koma’s woman uniform for spring combines warrior-like strength and graceful elegance.
Holland’s Ladylike Tough – For his spring 2014 collection, House of Holland designer Henry Holland found his inspiration in Mexico City and street style. The result was an outing of relaxed and ladylike silhouettes paired with tough urban elements such as trucker hats, tattoo inspired prints and boxy tees. Metallic brocades and lace detailing brought a romantic touch to Holland’s contemporary woman. Gingham patterns showed up with shirts, pants or skirts in bold blue and red hues. Topping off the cool look are retro-inspired cat eye sunglasses and strappy heels in metallic colors.
Daks’ Versatile Spring – Daks creative director Filippo Scuff focused on lightweight, daytime looks for the English brand’s spring 2014 collection. The check print is an iconic staple of the label and was used throughout the new season in ladylike separates including strapless tops, tartan pants, dramatic capes and maxi-length dresses. Other than the check prints, Scuffi found real success with a section of black gowns cut in clean, minimal silhouettes and nipped at the waist with leather belts.