The Perfect Ten – Marking ten years at Lanvin, creative director Alber Elbaz celebrated with some of his “greatest hits” for the label’s fall 2012 collection. From sculpted silhouettes to jewel encrusted garments, the new season certainly had a festive feeling with a showing of all skirts and dresses. Opening with vibrant jewel tones of electric blue, scarlet and canary yellow; body conscious silhouettes and luxe detailing such as dramatic ruffles, fur and lace accents dominated the runway. As the show progressed, the color palette became darker with inky blacks and dark metallic fabrics. Topped off with gloves and chunky jewelry, the Lanvin woman looks ready to party for the autumn.
Dior’s Classic Fall – Bill Gaytten looked towards the archives for inspiration with his second mainline collection for Dior’s fall 2012 presentation. With still no official word on a permanent creative director, the new season showcased demure forties and fifties inspired silhouettes in a muted color palette of taupe, black and burgundy. Despite the lack of Galliano opulence, Gaytten offered a lovely refinement for the autumn season with ballerina inspired shapes. Cinched jackets, pleated skirts and jewelry style embellishments dominate the Dior woman’s wardrobe for autumn.
Dries’ Eastern Fall – For fall 2012, Dries Van Noten embraced an Asian inspired outing with lush coats, tailored suiting and patterned jackets influenced by designs in London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. The Van Noten woman takes her trip to the East with streamlined silhouettes and dragon or floral prints matched with fur adorned parkas. The Belgian designer’s distinct menswear influence loosened at times, providing delicate dresses and skirts in kaleidoscopic hues of citrus orange, turquoise, jade and ivory. Despite using a well-established theme, Van Noten brought something fresh and distinctly modern to the upcoming autumn.
Ferragamo’s Strict Elegance – For fall 2012, Salvatore Ferragamo tempered tropical prints in exchange for black leather and lace with its latest collection previewed during Milan Fashion Week. Coats had a military inspired cut with sweeping shapes and gold accents, while skirts came in flirty shapes paired with belts in black or chocolate. As the show progressed, black transformed into plum, taupe and dark scarlet hues. Designer Massimiliano Giornetti ended on a romantic note–featuring sheer dresses with brocade detailing and billowing shapes.
Dolce & Gabbana’s Baroque Woman – Dolce & Gabbana’s Italian glamour took a turn for bejeweled, Baroque inspired beauty with designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s fall 2012 showing presented during Milan Fashion Week. Influenced by Sicilian art work, models took to the runway in brocade and cherub tapestry prints. Accessories for the show included bejeweled headbands, gold jewelry and pearl adorned handbags. Delicate lace work was also on display with ladylike dresses that reached the knee and black veils worn like the Madonna. Bringing some sex appeal to the demure showing, Dolce sent out lingerie inspired bustiers and hot pants for a cheeky take on the Baroque influence.
Pucci’s Pared Down Fall – Emilio Pucci’s bohemian chic took a turn for glamorous minimalism with its fall 2012 presentation shown during Milan Fashion Week. Creative director Peter Dundas opened with a strong showing of black dresses in slinky silhouettes. Luxe crocodile, crystal detailing and sheer cutouts brought some sex appeal to the minimal designs. As the show progressed, some color was introduced in the form of sky blue and nude tones. Menswear inspired looks such as modified tuxedo jackets and tailored pants also made an appearance. With the lack of prints and fringe, it appears that the Pucci woman might be growing up, but as Dundas’ designs suggest–it doesn’t mean a loss of sex appeal for the upcoming autumn.
Raf’s Farewell to Jil Sander – With news of Raf Simons’ departure from Jil Sander hitting this week (and a possible move to Dior), fall 2012 marks the last season that the Belgian designer will be known as creative director of the German label. It only seems fitting that his final season featured an expert showing of minimal, ladylike clothing which the house has become well-known for while under his direction. A color palette of powder pink, nude, ivory, scarlet and black set a classically refined tone for the new season. Simons also introduced his own take on well-known shapes with a play on proportion and color.
As one chapter closes, another one opens. Designer Jil Sander is set to take over her namesake label once again with Simons’ departure, and it will certainly be interesting to see what her vision is for the label’s future.
Bottega Veneta’s Somber Elegance – For fall 2012, Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier presented a collection of dark elegance during the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week. Opening with an army of somber black ensembles, the Bottega woman looks towards minimal yet form-fitting silhouettes for the new season. As the show continued, however, Maier introduced some color in the form of soft lavender, dark plum and abstract prints in shades of citrus orange. Many looks were matched with black gloves that ran far past the elbow. The display of understated elegance culminated in a finale gown of lush velvet, worn by spring campaign star Karmen Pedaru.
Versace’s Tough Glamour – Donatella Versace opted for a dark color palette with rock and roll undertones for Versace’s fall 2012 show presented during Milan Fashion Week. Sexy silhouettes, metal mesh and jewel encrusted Byzantine crosses dominated the runway as models donned short hemlines and fitted jackets for autumn. Embracing a dark edge, Versace matched form-fitting designs with leather gloves and severe hair. Adding to the glamazon looks were heeled boots made of more mesh that ended at the knee. The Versace logo was even incorporated on a few pieces in the form of bold, graphic lettering. For the finale, a gown of pure silver chains and metallic fabric hit the catwalk for an armored yet luxe end statement.