Dries’ Eastern Fall – For fall 2012, Dries Van Noten embraced an Asian inspired outing with lush coats, tailored suiting and patterned jackets influenced by designs in London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. The Van Noten woman takes her trip to the East with streamlined silhouettes and dragon or floral prints matched with fur adorned parkas. The Belgian designer’s distinct menswear influence loosened at times, providing delicate dresses and skirts in kaleidoscopic hues of citrus orange, turquoise, jade and ivory. Despite using a well-established theme, Van Noten brought something fresh and distinctly modern to the upcoming autumn.
Gianfranco Ferré’s Streamlined Fall – Designers Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi presented their second collection for Gianfranco Ferré with the label’s fall 2012 showing presented on the final day of Milan Fashion Week. The two embraced an androgynous aesthetic and used a color palette of inky black, silvery grey, navy and off white. Forgoing patterns or jewelry, the new season was all about shape with streamlined silhouettes that were modern if not futuristic. Ferré’s androgynous heroine also got a touch of glam with the use of lush fur and metallic fabrics for the upcoming autumn.
Ferragamo’s Strict Elegance – For fall 2012, Salvatore Ferragamo tempered tropical prints in exchange for black leather and lace with its latest collection previewed during Milan Fashion Week. Coats had a military inspired cut with sweeping shapes and gold accents, while skirts came in flirty shapes paired with belts in black or chocolate. As the show progressed, black transformed into plum, taupe and dark scarlet hues. Designer Massimiliano Giornetti ended on a romantic note–featuring sheer dresses with brocade detailing and billowing shapes.
Dolce & Gabbana’s Baroque Woman – Dolce & Gabbana’s Italian glamour took a turn for bejeweled, Baroque inspired beauty with designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s fall 2012 showing presented during Milan Fashion Week. Influenced by Sicilian art work, models took to the runway in brocade and cherub tapestry prints. Accessories for the show included bejeweled headbands, gold jewelry and pearl adorned handbags. Delicate lace work was also on display with ladylike dresses that reached the knee and black veils worn like the Madonna. Bringing some sex appeal to the demure showing, Dolce sent out lingerie inspired bustiers and hot pants for a cheeky take on the Baroque influence.
Marni’s Adorned Fall – For fall 2012, Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni exchanged her signature prints for a story of color blocking and structured silhouettes with a hint of Eastern influence. Autumn saw a lot of fur and layers with wide belts cinched at the waist. Shapes played with proportion, showcasing sculpted shoulders and wide skirts. Jewelry accents also came in the form of large brooches which adorned some garments’ necklines and sequin embellished skirts or tops. For beauty, models wore sheared fringe and long, stick straight hair reflecting the refined vision of the new season.
Pucci’s Pared Down Fall – Emilio Pucci’s bohemian chic took a turn for glamorous minimalism with its fall 2012 presentation shown during Milan Fashion Week. Creative director Peter Dundas opened with a strong showing of black dresses in slinky silhouettes. Luxe crocodile, crystal detailing and sheer cutouts brought some sex appeal to the minimal designs. As the show progressed, some color was introduced in the form of sky blue and nude tones. Menswear inspired looks such as modified tuxedo jackets and tailored pants also made an appearance. With the lack of prints and fringe, it appears that the Pucci woman might be growing up, but as Dundas’ designs suggest–it doesn’t mean a loss of sex appeal for the upcoming autumn.
Sportmax’s Structured Fall – Max Mara’s offshoot line, Sportmax, presented its fall 2012 show earlier today on the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week. As always, Sportmax had a youthful appeal with high hemlines, experimental shapes and lightweight outerwear. The color palette showcased a balance between electric blue, fuchsia, off white and inky black. Autumn had an Eastern influence with origami-like folds and kimono ties appearing on lush fur-trimmed coats and dresses. Models wore wedged boots and Milan’s go-to accessory of black gloves to complement the streamlined, almost androgynous showing.
Bottega Veneta’s Somber Elegance – For fall 2012, Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier presented a collection of dark elegance during the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week. Opening with an army of somber black ensembles, the Bottega woman looks towards minimal yet form-fitting silhouettes for the new season. As the show continued, however, Maier introduced some color in the form of soft lavender, dark plum and abstract prints in shades of citrus orange. Many looks were matched with black gloves that ran far past the elbow. The display of understated elegance culminated in a finale gown of lush velvet, worn by spring campaign star Karmen Pedaru.
Blumarine’s Playful Fall – For fall 2012, Blumarine showcased a collection of over the top glamour with colorful fur coats, wild animal prints and techno silver fabrics. Opening the show with sexy ski bunny coats, designer Anna Molinari made sure the autumn season was a playful one by featuring oversize bags that looked like poms poms more than actual accessories. As the show progressed, some sparkle was added in the form of sequin embellished tops, pants and chunky jewelry. Always unapologetic with the amount of excess and glamour, Blumarine brought a sense of carefree style to the upcoming season.
Max Mara Goes Under Cover for Fall – Max Mara presented an array of lush, military inspired coats for its fall 2012 collection presented during Milan Fashion Week. Following an understated color scheme of tan, army green, off white and inky black; the Max Mara woman is looking for luxury in the simple things such as slouchy jumpers or floor length coats. The new season is all about layering–from stiff collared jackets matched with striped pajama wear to slinky dresses matched with tweed shorts–these looks strike a chord between the masculine and feminine for autumn with an expert ease.