Charm School by Marc – The fall 2012 collection of Marc Jacobs’ wearable offshoot line–Marc by Marc Jacobs–featured a parade of school girl inspired ensembles complete with pleated skirts, modest sweaters and no-fuss dresses. The color palette was grounded in traditional colors of black, red, navy and sapphire. Prints ranged from tartan to stripes to floral. For outerwear, Jacobs also played with bulky shapes reminiscent of his mainline show but with a less severe outcome.
Rodarte’s Retro Inspired Fall – Rodarte sisters Laura and Kate Mullavey brought a more mature, refined touch to their dreamy designs with the label’s fall 2012 show presented earlier today during New York Fashion Week. Taking a cue from 40s inspired silhouettes, the duo chose a subdued palette of nude, marmalade and burgundy for the new season. Leather and shearling brought a hard edge to the romantic designs in the form of aviator style jackets. Gowns were adorned in Swavorski crystals, referencing a more feminine touch.
The Mad Hatter – For fall 2012, Marc Jacobs teamed up with milliner Stephen Jones to help envision his latest collection filled with oversize and floppy hats that could easily belong to Alice in Wonderland’s Mad Hatter. Playing with the fairytale theme, Jacobs offered a fantastical play on proportions in the form of bulky skirts and jackets layered expertly for the autumn season. The color palette was steeped in moody hues with accents of gold, powder pink and lilac. Patterns ranged from paisley to floral which broke up the heavy silhouettes with levity. The show ended on a more subdued note, featuring a few pared down ensembles that lengthened in hemlines and flattened in shape.
Back to Nature – English author Beatrix Potter’s botanical illustrations inspired Preen designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi for the label’s fall 2012 collection. The pair, originally from Britain, brought a bit of the English countryside to New York Fashion Week with floral patterns, butterfly prints and bold color blocking on the runway. Silhouettes hinged on classic with ’40s inspired dress shapes and tapered pants. The final section embraced a ladylike demureness with sheer lace tops and sequin embellished skirts.
The Layered Lady – For fall 2012, Carolina Herrera embraced a story of layering complete with a cool palette of navy, robin egg blue, ash, eggplant and black. The new season introduced lengthened silhouettes, cozy cowls and abstract prints. Touches of fur, tweed and sequins brought a certain amount of lavishness to the sensible silhouettes. For the finale look, Herrera delivered drama in the form of a coral ball gown worn by model Aymeline Valade.
Lam’s Classic Fall – Derek Lam’s fall 2012 collection had all the trappings of a classic, American sportswear outing with tapered trousers, chunky knitwear and kitschy prints on display for the upcoming season. Models hit the runway in slightly mussed beehives reflecting the sixties feel of the designs featuring wearable yet luxurious outerwear made of leather, lambskin and wool. Lam also lengthened his hemlines for fall, culminating in a modest and effortlessly chic black ensemble worn by model Katryn Kruger for the finale.
Wu’s Armored Lady – Jason Wu delivered strict elegance with an homage to his Chinese roots for his fall 2012 show presented earlier today during New York Fashion Week. Form-fitting yet ladylike silhouettes hit the catwalk with sportswear undertones in the form of belted coats and capes. Military inspired jackets were accented with brocade, tassels and Swarovski crystals for a glamorous twist. Fall brought out a tougher, sleeker outing than what we would expect with high slits, leather and luxurious furs.
Valentino’s Demure Couture – Valentino under designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picciol has found its own voice throughout the years and spring 2012 haute couture is no exception with a collection of demure romanticism. This season showcased florals, lace, and crystal embellished bodices, all made with the utmost attention to detail. Like many shows this haute couture season, the color palette was light–showcasing silvers, powdery blue and rosy pink for a feminine touch.
Siren Couture – After last season’s tribute to Japan, Giorgio Armani dreamed up a sultry, siren-like vision for the Armani Privé spring 2012 collection. The season’s most standout color was undoubtedly green–from neon chartreuse to forest green–the unlikely hue had its moment in Paris Haute Couture after appearing at Atelier Versace earlier this week. Slinky silhouettes were draped like waves onto the ocean, making the models appear as otherworldly sea creatures as the emerged on the runway. Armani also embraced metallic with techno silver suiting and beaded gowns. Continuing with the underwater theme, sea snake patterns brought a hard edge to the already striking display of gowns.
Dream of Couture – Giambattista Valli played with hard and soft elements for his sophomore haute couture collection presented in Paris this week. Feminine touches of lace, flowers and sequins are juxtaposed with streamlined silhouettes for spring. Valli even included outerwear with sheer capes and a more embellished take on a sixties housecoat. Models also wore large floral hair ornaments to match stunning gowns in hues of plum, fuchsia, ivory and black.