The Perfect Ten – Marking ten years at Lanvin, creative director Alber Elbaz celebrated with some of his “greatest hits” for the label’s fall 2012 collection. From sculpted silhouettes to jewel encrusted garments, the new season certainly had a festive feeling with a showing of all skirts and dresses. Opening with vibrant jewel tones of electric blue, scarlet and canary yellow; body conscious silhouettes and luxe detailing such as dramatic ruffles, fur and lace accents dominated the runway. As the show progressed, the color palette became darker with inky blacks and dark metallic fabrics. Topped off with gloves and chunky jewelry, the Lanvin woman looks ready to party for the autumn.
Owens’ Fiery Fall – Taking a dark turn from spring’s parade of white, designer Rick Owens was back to black and grey for his fall 2012 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. All the usual trappings of Owens’ creations were out in full form–the long silhouettes, leather works and futuristic undertones appeared against a setting of fire. Models took to the runway wearing stark red lips and mesh masks in the post-apocalyptic designs. For the finale, Owens offered some prints in the form of checkered plaid matched with slouchy trousers layered under skirts.
Mugler’s Insect Fall – For fall 2012, Mugler creative director Nicola Formichetti looked towards the archives for inspiration with Thierry Mugler’s 1997 “Insect” collection. The new season plays with arthropod shapes, featuring winged shoulders, furry sleeves, high slits and insect-like cut outs. A color palette of mostly black and white lets the shapes of autumn stand out. For the final section of the show, Formichetti sent out a parade of all black with lightweight hoods and sheer sleeves.
Black on Black – Gareth Pugh delivered his signature gothic style for his namesake label’s fall 2012 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. Pugh ditched last season’s bondage inspired shapes for more tribal designs complete with fringe dresses, leather outerwear and fur embellishments. High necklines, some of which that even cover the face, were matched with thin headbands, clunky boots and winged shoulders in all black and grey for the new season. Whether donning zipped up capes or shaggy coats, the Pugh woman knows how to bundle up for the upcoming winter.
Giorgio Armani’s Sparkling Fall – For fall 2012, Giorgio Armani presented a collection showcasing his signature suiting with a youthful, slightly rock and roll inspired edge. Opening with tailored suits in grey and fedora style hats, the Armani woman walked the line between masculine and feminine for autumn. As the show progressed, vibrant orange and pink hues were introduced with fur coats, sparkling dresses and Bermuda shorts layered over black tights. The glam designs were accented by fingerless gloves and chunky jewelery as models walked the catwalk dripping in glittering necklaces, earrings and bracelets.
Fendi’s Furry Fall – For fall 2012, Fendi was in its element presenting a collection of extravagant fur outerwear and structural-based silhouettes on the second day of Milan Fashion Week. Designers Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi chose a color palette of tawny blonde, navy and ash grey to tell a story of winter glamour complete with leather dresses, pleated skirts and puffed-up shoulders. The season’s separates were divided by an oval belt, accentuating the waist and creating a classic feminine shape underneath voluminous coats. Beauty for the show including thick coils as pigtails and icy eye shadow for a look suited to a mountainous region.
Bloom Town – Sharif Hamza captures spring’s trend of floral prints with a colorful story featured in W Magazine’s March issue. Garbed in pieces from the likes of Christopher Kane, Dolce & Gabbana and Alexander Wang selected by fashion editor Giovanna Battaglia, models Patricia van der Vliet and Emily Baker wow in the feminine frocks against a market place setting.
Farhi’s London Woman – For fall 2012, Nicole Farhi chose to make clothes for the modern woman with a moody outing of tailored jackets, form-fitting skirts and elegant dresses. A far cry from last season’s pastel hues–autumn was all about sleek, streamlined silhouettes in shades of dark emerald, black, ivory and bronze. The heavy outerwear was paired with thin belts around the waist, charcoal stockings and leather gloves. Farhi embellished the strong shapes with glittering sequins and paillettes, bringing a glamorous edge to the structured shapes.
House of Holland’s Electric Fall – For fall 2012, House of Holland’s Henry Holland sent out an array of colorful patterns in primary colors. Whether an enlarged houndstooth print or zig zag stripes, the upbeat collection oozed youth with playful ruffles, flared pants and metallic accents. The flirty silhouettes were matched with patterned stockings or socks and chunky, platform heels. For beauty, models walked down the runway with bright red lips and messy ponytails reflecting the carefree spirit of autumn.
Ladylike Edge – Taking the slot as the final major show of New York Fashion Week, Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa presented a mix of ladylike silhouettes with a modern edge for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Known for its minimal appeal, the new season focused on dramatic, hourglass shapes in hues of coral, black, wheat and ash grey. Lush materials of mohair, tweed, leather, wool and shearling were matched with metallic belts cinched at the waist. Beauty also coincided with the severe clothing as models took to the runway in slicked back hair and understated makeup.