Miu Miu Suits Up for Fall – Miuccia Prada displayed a collection of menswear inspired suiting for Miu Miu’s fall 2012 preview presented on the final day of Paris Fashion Week. Taking a cue from her Prada designs, autumn was all about the pantsuit in kitschy, retro style prints ranging from raspberry to electric blue to chocolate-brown. While Prada played with girly shapes, Miu Miu focused on the boyish side of trousers with buttoned-up jackets, neck ties and belted waists. The androgynous suiting was given an edge with oversize jewelry, colorful handbags and funky platform heels. For the final section, Prada added some feminine allure into the mix by layering shift dresses over shirts and mini skirts.
Louis Vuitton’s Traveling Woman – Louis Vuitton creative director Marc Jacobs celebrated the label’s heritage with an accessories driven fall 2012 presentation shown in a turn of the century train station set. Each model walked down the runway with an uniformed porter by her side, carrying her luggage and bags. The twentieth century style did not just stop with the elaborate set. Garments played on a lean, classic silhouette modernized by proportion and length such as a cropped jacket or leggings layered underneath a dress. Oversize hats and decorative patterns also dominated the runway as did platform heels. The timeless elegance got a bejeweled flair with gem adorned fabrics and clasps. After a look back at the past, the show ended with a trio of metallic silver looks as if a nod to the future ahead.
A Stroll Through the Park – Paul & Joe designer Sophie Albou kept it simple for the label’s fall 2012 showing presented during Paris Fashion Week. A story of menswear inspired pieces with a feminine flair set the stage for relaxed trousers matched with tailored blazers and jackets. The color palette was steeped in autumn hues of navy, ash grey, army green, marmalade and even a rare metallic fabric. For the final section, the boyish looks were given a glam touch with lacy tops and crystal embellished belts.
McQueen’s Cyber Luxe – After four seasons at the helm, Alexander McQueen creative director Sarah Burton really came into her own with the label’s fall 2012 preview presented during the second to last day of Paris Fashion Week. Voluminous mushroom-like shapes dominated the catwalk complete with ruffled capes, fur-adorned sleeves and organza covered gowns. A color palette of inky black, scarlet red, powder pink and ivory set the stage for the dramatic silhouettes that were more evening wear fantasy than ready-to-wear. Sleek visors and barbell shaped belts in techno silver brought a futuristic vibe to the shaggy designs. Burton also injected some romanticism into the stunning display with feminine silhouettes and mid-drift baring tops.
Valentino’s Touch of Tough – It appears the Valentino woman’s romantic gowns are getting a strict makeover for the upcoming autumn. With fall 2012, Valentino designers Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri brought an edgy twist to their demure romanticism with an opening section of leather capes and skirts. Structured silhouettes transformed into floor-length gowns in an autumn palette of black, nude, scarlet and ivory. Tailored pants and refined blouses dominated the presentation as did decorative patterns ranging from flowers to the more abstract. The duo’s lacework–sometimes glittery–also made an appearance in the showing paired with sheer long sleeves and ruffled skirts. A juxtaposition of strict elegance and feminine frills win another hit for Piccioli and Chiuri.
Haakan’s Sculpted Fall – With his last two seasons taking on sexy skin baring cuts, Hakaan designer Hakaan Yildirim debuted a fall 2012 collection which focused on the power of shapes and fabrics. That it is not to say that autumn is demure by any means–the body-hugging silhouettes are pure feminine allure on their own. Yet there is a certain reserved quality to the new season with its sculpted shoulders and pleat embellishments reminiscent of eighties power dressing. Rich metallic fabrics, mid-length skirts and tough leather dominated the runway. Also adding to the hard exterior were shoes adorned with spikes and pointy toes. For autumn, it looks like the Hakaan woman strikes a balance between strength and sex appeal with a futuristic looking wardrobe.
Chanel’s Crystal Fall – Always known for its elaborate sets, the fall 2012 collection from Chanel made its debut against a backdrop of oversize crystals. The crystal theme was in fact a major motif of the autumn collection with models donning icy eyebrows, raised crystal patterns and lucite shoes paired with translucent heels. A dark color palette of ash grey, black, violet and burgundy steeped the new season in autumn hues. Wool coats in loose-fitting shapes dominated the showing as did leggings sometimes layered underneath skirts. For the final looks, designer Karl Lagerfeld introduced feathers and glittering accents for a touch of evening wear glamour.
Pilati’s Farewell to YSL – Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati presented his final collection for the label’s fall 2012 preview shown during Paris Fashion Week. It was announced a week ago that the Italian designer would leave the iconic brand after being at the helm since 2004. Black was the dominate color for autumn with sleek, body conscious shapes cinched at the waist and made of mostly leather. It seems only fitting that the final collection from Pilati would be straightforward and to the point with plunging necklines and sculpted shoulders defining the YSL woman for fall. Metal accents and mesh knits also played a part in the strong yet sensual display.
Pilati’s successor has yet to be named although former Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane has been rumored for some time. Regardless of what the future brings, Pilati’s shaping of Yves Saint Laurent can not be denied and the autumn collection proves precisely that.
Chloe’s Sumptuous Layers – Marking her sophomore season at Chloe, designer Clare Waight Keller presented a fall 2012 collection of autumn layers and lax silhouettes during Paris Fashion Week. A traditional Chloe color palette of soft pastels grounded by neutral tans and tawny browns dominated the runway as models sported tousled locks for autumn. Comfy knits, wool and lace sweaters brought a feminine ease to pant and shirt combinations. If Keller’s goal was to create a wardrobe of minimally luxe separates, she certainly succeeded for the upcoming season.
Valli’s Demure Luxe – After last season’s luxe ethereal showing, Giambattista Valli turned down the volume for his namesake label’s fall 2012 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. An autumn color palette of black, ivory and scarlet set the stage for bold, graphic prints and ladylike shapes. Floor length gowns were segmented by mid-size metallic belts. Autumn also saw many tweed separates in two toned looks with geometric shapes. Beauty for the show included slicked back hair and understated makeup to reflect the minimal elegance of the new season.