Lanvin’s Spring Bling – For Lanvin’s spring 2014 collection, creative director Alber Elbaz made sure that his woman shined–quite literally in an outing of glittering brocade and lamé fabrics made of jewel-toned hues. The new season is all about wearable luxury with classic staples like the pencil skirt or drop waist flapper dresses revamped with accordion-like folds and satin-like materials. The Lanvin woman also sports traditionally menswear pieces like the evening jacket worn over crinkled shirts and fitted trousers. Accessories for spring also shine; metallic totes and oversized costume jewelry top off an already opulent outing.
Ricci’s Charming Woman – Nina Ricci creative director Peter Copping feminized menswear staples like the suit jacket, waist coat and button-up shirt for the label’s spring 2014 collection. Opening with a color palette of pure white and cream shades, the new season took airy and crisp lightness into more saturated hues such as cerulean and Monet-like floral prints during the latter section. Despite the mens inspiration, the Nina Ricci woman is not short on pretty or romantic for the upcoming spring. Dreamy dresses of chiffon, silk adorned with pleat details brought a romantic air to the show despite the interruption of protestors mid-way through.
Balmain’s Modern Retro – Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing was in a nineties mood for the French fashion house’s spring 2014 collection shown during the third day of Paris Fashion Week. Jackets with boxy shoulders, quilted separates and skirts with flouncy hems that are either ruffle or feather-embellished gave a nod to Chanel during the nineties. Prints for the season embrace gingham and houndstooth motifs while the color palette is steeped in monochrome as well as pastel blues and pinks. The overall trend which we have seen a few times during spring previews, is highlighted with slinky pinstripes, sparkling squares or sleek leather.
Rochas creative director Marco Zanini showcased a light and feminine collection featuring elaborate details evoking the look of crystal, water and glass. The pastel color palette, sheer airy fabrics and gem accents truly made the spring outing shine.
Pugh’s Sci-fi Darlings – For his eponymous label’s spring 2014 collection, British designer Gareth Pugh showcased his signature gothic style with a science-fiction twist. As always, the silhouettes are sculptural, clinging onto the body with winged shoulders or high necklines for a dramatic effect. The color palette for the new season offers black, white, grey, silver and a sampling of turquoise. In addition to the alien-esque looks, Pugh also delivered more pared down pieces such as wide-legged trousers or slinky silk gowns fit for evening wear. Head gear is almost a requirement for a Pugh runway show at this point, and for spring, the headpiece in question is made of ostrich feathers.
Rochas’ Sweet Spring – For Rochas’ spring 2014 show, creative director Marco Zanini cites his inspiration as water, glass and crystal in the show notes. However, the words that comes to mind when looking at ultra-feminine designs of the new season is sweet and light, and we could use a little unadulterated femininity after the minimalism of Milan Fashion Week. The Rochas woman is a delicate vision in sheer organza, a splash of Swarovski crystals and tinsel-like embroidery in light colors ranging from ethereal silvers to diaphanous pastels. On her feet she wears ostrich adorned slippers or crocodile heels decorated with buckles.
Van Noten’s Gold Season – Dries van Noten delivered his trademark romanticism with an opulent refinement for his spring 2014 collection shown during the second day of Paris Fashion Week. The Belgian designer presented dreamy floral prints and relaxed silhouettes featuring a strong theme of gold ranging from metallic vests to more subtle accents like gold pleats. Skirts decorated with ruffles add some volume to the spring season as well as large floral-shaped ornaments in ruched silk and gold plissé. Accessories for the new season include retro, circular-shaped frames and embroidered bags with tribal details.
Vaccarello’s Skin Show – Showing on the first day of Paris Fashion Week, the spring-summer 2014 collection from Anthony Vaccarello’s eponymous label displayed the Belgian designer’s body conscious designs that were not afraid to show a little, or a lot of skin. A color palette of mostly black with pops of white or red revealed dresses and skirts in slinky silhouettes. The designs were embellished with large and round silver gems which either accented cut-away swimsuits or completely decorated skirts with futuristic, V-shaped hemlines. Despite all the show of skin, there were some more covered-up elements like cropped jackets in leather and slouchy trousers.
Daphne Groeneveld at Louis Vuitton’s fall-winter 2013 runway show
Runway season for the spring 2014 collections is still going strong. Milan Fashion Week ends on Monday and Paris Fashion Week starts on Tuesday, September 24th and runs until October 2nd. Check out the full Paris schedule below.
Tuesday September 24th
10 am Lucien Pellat Finet
11 am Moon Young Hee
12 pm Christine Phung
1 pm Pascal Millet
2 pm Ground Zero
3 pm Le Moine Tricote
4 pm Dévastée
5 pm Cédric Charlier
6 pm Anthony Vaccarello
7 pm Aganovich
8 pm Julien David
9 pm Jacquemus
Saab’s Tough Elegance – Elie Saab traded in his signature romantic gowns for a sleek and sexy revamp with his namesake label’s fall 2012 collection. Opening with form-fitting dresses and skirts in ash grey and black, the Elie Saab woman wears power dressing for the new decade with architectural inspired silhouettes. Fur coats also made an appearance matched with pencil skirts and long-sleeved blouses. Pants, trench coats and jumpsuits were all staples of the upcoming autumn. Saab saved the evening wear for last, producing glitzy gowns with high slits in metallic hues of gold, silver and bronze.