Stella McCartney’s fall 2011 outing embraced minimal luxury. With experimentation found in shapes and proportion, models took the runway with puffed up sleeves, dot motifs and abstract patterns. The highlight of the show included a finale of form-fitting black dresses with asymmetrical cut-outs for a story of contrast as the voluminous shapes were followed by tight silhouettes.
Lions, panthers and bears, oh my–Givenchy’s fall 2011 collection gave way to a plethora of prints for the new season. Designer Riccardo Tisci took on floral and panther prints with a mostly monochromatic color palette accented by forest green and violet hues. The styling of the show was not so much casual, but more street-wear friendly than previous seasons with sheer material paired with mini ruffled skirts, leather jackets and knit sweaters.
For his first season as Hermès creative director, designer Christophe Lemaire made his mark with a more wearable and relaxed collection than seen from his predecessor Jean Paul Gaultier. Slouchy easy shapes inspired by turn of the century fashion were a fresh turn for the label. The show ended on a bright note, with models donning teal and citrus hues.
Flowers for the fall season may seem a little off the base, but Kenzo designer Antonio Marras transformed a spring motif into autumn luxury with the label’s latest collection. Loose-fitting silhouettes dominated the catwalk as well as a dark palette featuring intricate eastern inspired patterns and prints accented by crimson and gold jacquard detailing.
John Galliano’s fall 2011 collection featured all the staples of the absent designer’s well known aesthetic–sumptuous materials, dramatic silhouettes and high octane glamour. With speculation about whether show would be pulled in its entirety, the runway show was made into a presentation. Despite the massive public fallout, Galliano still appears to have many supporters in the fashion world and only time and sales will tell about his future standing in the industry.
Inspired by the interiors of vintage cars, the fall 2011 collection from Céline had models taking to the catwalk bold stripes, “dismantled” silhouettes and wood paneling prints. Designer Phoebe Philo’s minimalist vision was out in full force with easy shapes and fitted pants.
Jean Paul Gaultier’s fall 2011 collection had models donning gray beehives with retro wear inspired by the ’50s and ’60s. On the runway, the girls took off layers and threw them to the end of the catwalk–perhaps symbolizing the freedom of fashion or maybe just to have a bit of fun as Gaultier is known for. Either way, the smart suits, puffer jackets and bold patterns seemed to celebrate maturity and sophistication.
Sonia Rykiel’s fall 2011 runway show had an unconventional set-up as models stood by fences, talked with one another and even took a rest on a bench for a casual change of pace. As for the clothing–Rykiel’s signature knits were on full display as well as quirky outerwear which came in the form of bubble gum pink and canary yellow fur boas. Color blocking, stripes and plaids also made an appearance on the catwalk.
For their fall 2011 collection, Viktor & Rolf looked towards the medieval age for inspiration. Models walked down the runway with red faces, the designer duo’s signature avant garde shapes with armor-like pleats and large flower motifs which served as a sort of coat of arms. Ending with a parade of metallic dresses, Viktor & Rolf’s finale ended in the Silver Age and was overall a strong showing for the Dutch pair.
Back in November, it was reported that Karl Lagerfeld wanted Haider Ackermann to replace him as the creative director of Chanel once he retired. When looking at Ackermann’s fall 2011 collection, it is hard to imagine his sleek and sometimes even futuristic vision at the renowned fashion house. But now with rumors swirling about him being a possible Galliano successor at Dior–Ackermann proved he is definitely a designer to watch when he went to new heights today, showing a masterful play on the masculine and the feminine. Asymmetrical silhouettes with velvet, silk and satin gathered to one side seemed to be a dominate theme for the autumn season. Outerwear featured strong puffed up shoulders, slinky silhouettes and wide leather belts.