Unique’s Military Chic – Topshop Unique tapped into the fall season’s trend of military inspired pieces for its latest collection presented during London Fashion Week. Models hit the runway in army green, dark plum, ash grey and black. Silhouettes were lax yet modern with a rock and roll vibe that took hemlines to the upper thigh. Layering was a must for autumn with long coats placed on top of lightweight dresses and slouchy trousers. A vast change from last season’s Egyptian themed show, Unique appears to be growing up beginning with fall 2012.
Farhi’s London Woman – For fall 2012, Nicole Farhi chose to make clothes for the modern woman with a moody outing of tailored jackets, form-fitting skirts and elegant dresses. A far cry from last season’s pastel hues–autumn was all about sleek, streamlined silhouettes in shades of dark emerald, black, ivory and bronze. The heavy outerwear was paired with thin belts around the waist, charcoal stockings and leather gloves. Farhi embellished the strong shapes with glittering sequins and paillettes, bringing a glamorous edge to the structured shapes.
Through the Forest – Mulberry was inspired by fantasy and whimsy for its fall 2012 collection presented during London Fashion Week. Opening with an array of fur coats reminiscent of monsters from “Where the Wild Things Are”, autumn focused on a mix of textiles, colors and prints. Creative director Emma Hill also created silk dresses in vibrant, kaleidoscopic patterns worn underneath the season’s voluminous coats. Among the accessories on the runway was a new bag inspired by American songstress Lana Del Rey, simply titled the Del Ray. For the finale, in lieu of colorful prints–Hill sent out all black ensembles in fluid shapes.
Aquascutum’s Streamlined Fall – Aquascutum creative director Joanna Sykes showcased a selection of androgynous coats and streamlined silhouettes for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Marking her fourth season at the helm of the British brand, Sykes focused on a muted palette of ash grey, black, navy and taupe for the autumn. Besides tailored outerwear, the new season also offered slouchy trousers, elbow-length leather gloves and asymmetrical hemlines for a youthful twist.
Proenza Schouler’s Cool Woman – After spring’s secretarial inspired fashion, Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough focused on modern, Japanese inspired silhouettes for fall 2012. Models hit the runway in androgynous shapes with asymmetrical necklines and skin-baring hemlines. A color palette of pure white graduated into electric blue, burgundy and crimson red hues matched with Eastern patterns. A story of contrast, Proenza’s protagonist was elegant yet sporty, modern yet classic, youthful yet mature for the new season.
Rodarte’s Retro Inspired Fall – Rodarte sisters Laura and Kate Mullavey brought a more mature, refined touch to their dreamy designs with the label’s fall 2012 show presented earlier today during New York Fashion Week. Taking a cue from 40s inspired silhouettes, the duo chose a subdued palette of nude, marmalade and burgundy for the new season. Leather and shearling brought a hard edge to the romantic designs in the form of aviator style jackets. Gowns were adorned in Swavorski crystals, referencing a more feminine touch.
Back to Nature – English author Beatrix Potter’s botanical illustrations inspired Preen designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi for the label’s fall 2012 collection. The pair, originally from Britain, brought a bit of the English countryside to New York Fashion Week with floral patterns, butterfly prints and bold color blocking on the runway. Silhouettes hinged on classic with ’40s inspired dress shapes and tapered pants. The final section embraced a ladylike demureness with sheer lace tops and sequin embellished skirts.
Prim & Proper – After pre-fall’s dedication to prep school chic, the fall 2012 collection from Jil Sander’s Navy line puts a new meaning on prim and proper with elegantly demure designs. Modeled by Monika Sawicka and Yulia Lobova, the new range places a focus on modest pea coats, cardigan knits, pleated skirts, cube shaped backpacks and adorned collars. Steeped in a color palette of neutrals paired with pops of powder blue and red, the Navy woman embraces everything ladylike for the new season.
A Light Touch to Fall – Jill Stuart’s signature feminine, airy frocks were out in full force for her fall 2012 show presented earlier today during New York Fashion Week. The color palette was dark, with pops of metallic, plum and navy to lighten to mood. Not one to pass on demureness, Stuart also featured a mix of lace and ruffles with peekaboo cutouts and leggy hemlines for a sexy touch. Outerwear included puffy coats belted at the waist, making a strong contrast to the flirty dresses and skirts which dominated the runway for fall.
Through the Collections – Vogue Russia takes a look at the spring collections with references to the labels’ history for its February edition. Photographed by David Roemer (Atelier Management), models Josephine Skriver and Monika Sawicka wow in showstopping looks from the likes of Balmain, John Galliano, Kenzo and Chloe styled by Natasha Royt. / Hair by Rolando Beauchamp @ Community, Makeup by Fredrik Stambro @ Streeters