Ferragamo’s Strict Elegance – For fall 2012, Salvatore Ferragamo tempered tropical prints in exchange for black leather and lace with its latest collection previewed during Milan Fashion Week. Coats had a military inspired cut with sweeping shapes and gold accents, while skirts came in flirty shapes paired with belts in black or chocolate. As the show progressed, black transformed into plum, taupe and dark scarlet hues. Designer Massimiliano Giornetti ended on a romantic note–featuring sheer dresses with brocade detailing and billowing shapes.
Pucci’s Pared Down Fall – Emilio Pucci’s bohemian chic took a turn for glamorous minimalism with its fall 2012 presentation shown during Milan Fashion Week. Creative director Peter Dundas opened with a strong showing of black dresses in slinky silhouettes. Luxe crocodile, crystal detailing and sheer cutouts brought some sex appeal to the minimal designs. As the show progressed, some color was introduced in the form of sky blue and nude tones. Menswear inspired looks such as modified tuxedo jackets and tailored pants also made an appearance. With the lack of prints and fringe, it appears that the Pucci woman might be growing up, but as Dundas’ designs suggest–it doesn’t mean a loss of sex appeal for the upcoming autumn.
Etro’s Ladylike Seduction – Etro’s explosive prints took a demure turn for the label’s fall 2012 show presented on the third day of Milan Fashion Week. Designer Veronica Etro steeped the autumn season in a dreamy palette of marmalade, ash grey, powder blue, burgundy, navy and inky black. Slinky, body hugging silhouettes dominated the runway as models wore sheer materials paired with abstract patterns. Hints of fur, flirty ruffles and leather brought a luxe vibe to the autumn silhouettes. For beauty, models wore slicked back hair and plum or nude lips.
Moschino’s Cheeky Fall – Known for collections with kitschy themes, Moschino presented a collection of military inspired jackets for its fall 2012 presented shown during the third day of Milan Fashion Week. Using a joyous color palette of scarlet red, canary yellow, electric blue and flirty pink; creative director Rossella Jardini played with proportions and color for the new season. Models hit the runway in stetson hats, checkered patterns and bold gold accents. The cheeky showing culminated in ruffle-adorned, princess pink dress worn by model Cara Delevingne.
Fendi’s Furry Fall – For fall 2012, Fendi was in its element presenting a collection of extravagant fur outerwear and structural-based silhouettes on the second day of Milan Fashion Week. Designers Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi chose a color palette of tawny blonde, navy and ash grey to tell a story of winter glamour complete with leather dresses, pleated skirts and puffed-up shoulders. The season’s separates were divided by an oval belt, accentuating the waist and creating a classic feminine shape underneath voluminous coats. Beauty for the show including thick coils as pigtails and icy eye shadow for a look suited to a mountainous region.
Ferretti’s Seductive Glamour – Alberta Ferretti’s fall 2012 collection followed in the vein of spring with seductive silhouettes featuring peekaboo cut-outs. Ferretti offered some new elements though, showcasing tailored suiting and outerwear with a masculine overtone which contrasted with her signature gowns. A color palette steeped in black, deep purple, royal blue and crimson red dominated the new season. A touch of glittering sequins and woven leather brought a new twist to classic silhouettes. The show closed with an ethereal white gown worn by model Marte Mei Van Haaster which stuck a balance between soft and hard elements perfectly.
Gucci’s Gothic Fall – For fall 2012, Gucci creative director Frida Giannini presented a darkly decadent collection of billowing gowns, relaxed suiting and lush coats for the first day of Milan Fashion Week. Slinky and sensuous silhouettes dominated the runway in moody hues of inky black, dark emerald, plum, burgundy and sapphire blue. Chiffon gowns brought a romantic touch to the dark palette. Luxurious materials of feathers, crushed velvet and leather also made an appearance. For the finale, Giannini sent out sheer dresses embellished with sparkling leaf shapes–a testament to the strong yet feminine spirit of autumn.
The Reign of Burberry – For fall 2012, Burberry chief creative officer Christopher Bailey continued to focus on the label’s own brand of elegance with a showing of modern outerwear. Using a color palette of neutrals with accents of olive-green, amber, plum and teal; the Burberry woman stands out with the season’s strong silhouettes and detailing. Tailored coats paired with flared skirts and ruched bow belts bring a flirty edge to the structural shapes. Rich fabrics of silk, velvet, wool and lace juxtapose the balance between elegance and coolness for the upcoming autumn season.
A Celebration – Celebrating fifteen years of his label, Matthew Williamson presented a fall 2012 collection that is as nostalgic as it is current. A color palette of turquoise, plum, citrus orange and dark chartreuse provided a rich variety with a combination of Williamson’s signature print work on display. Tailored trousers, lightweight gowns and above-the-knee skirts dominated the runway. Glittering sequins decorated the occasional dress paired with metallic fabric. The show closed with a partially sheer gown worn by Maryna Linchuk that was adorned with large crystals.
Ralph Lauren’s Dapper and Divine Fall – On the final day of New York Fashion Week, Ralph Lauren presented a fall 2012 collection of refined glamour inspired by English aristocrats in autumn hues of navy, black, grey, plum and gold accents. The first section focused on menswear inspired pantsuits with dapper tailoring and newspaper boy hats softened by feminine curves and eclectic patterns. As the show progressed, the garments became more feminine featuring slinky gowns in long and fluid shapes of satin and velvet. A bit of glitz appeared in the form of sparkling sequins and ostrich feathers, culminating in a stunning finale gown of gold lamé worn by model Olga Sherer.