Marni’s Adorned Fall – For fall 2012, Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni exchanged her signature prints for a story of color blocking and structured silhouettes with a hint of Eastern influence. Autumn saw a lot of fur and layers with wide belts cinched at the waist. Shapes played with proportion, showcasing sculpted shoulders and wide skirts. Jewelry accents also came in the form of large brooches which adorned some garments’ necklines and sequin embellished skirts or tops. For beauty, models wore sheared fringe and long, stick straight hair reflecting the refined vision of the new season.
Sportmax’s Structured Fall – Max Mara’s offshoot line, Sportmax, presented its fall 2012 show earlier today on the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week. As always, Sportmax had a youthful appeal with high hemlines, experimental shapes and lightweight outerwear. The color palette showcased a balance between electric blue, fuchsia, off white and inky black. Autumn had an Eastern influence with origami-like folds and kimono ties appearing on lush fur-trimmed coats and dresses. Models wore wedged boots and Milan’s go-to accessory of black gloves to complement the streamlined, almost androgynous showing.
Versace’s Tough Glamour – Donatella Versace opted for a dark color palette with rock and roll undertones for Versace’s fall 2012 show presented during Milan Fashion Week. Sexy silhouettes, metal mesh and jewel encrusted Byzantine crosses dominated the runway as models donned short hemlines and fitted jackets for autumn. Embracing a dark edge, Versace matched form-fitting designs with leather gloves and severe hair. Adding to the glamazon looks were heeled boots made of more mesh that ended at the knee. The Versace logo was even incorporated on a few pieces in the form of bold, graphic lettering. For the finale, a gown of pure silver chains and metallic fabric hit the catwalk for an armored yet luxe end statement.
Moschino’s Cheeky Fall – Known for collections with kitschy themes, Moschino presented a collection of military inspired jackets for its fall 2012 presented shown during the third day of Milan Fashion Week. Using a joyous color palette of scarlet red, canary yellow, electric blue and flirty pink; creative director Rossella Jardini played with proportions and color for the new season. Models hit the runway in stetson hats, checkered patterns and bold gold accents. The cheeky showing culminated in ruffle-adorned, princess pink dress worn by model Cara Delevingne.
Fendi’s Furry Fall – For fall 2012, Fendi was in its element presenting a collection of extravagant fur outerwear and structural-based silhouettes on the second day of Milan Fashion Week. Designers Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi chose a color palette of tawny blonde, navy and ash grey to tell a story of winter glamour complete with leather dresses, pleated skirts and puffed-up shoulders. The season’s separates were divided by an oval belt, accentuating the waist and creating a classic feminine shape underneath voluminous coats. Beauty for the show including thick coils as pigtails and icy eye shadow for a look suited to a mountainous region.
Ferretti’s Seductive Glamour – Alberta Ferretti’s fall 2012 collection followed in the vein of spring with seductive silhouettes featuring peekaboo cut-outs. Ferretti offered some new elements though, showcasing tailored suiting and outerwear with a masculine overtone which contrasted with her signature gowns. A color palette steeped in black, deep purple, royal blue and crimson red dominated the new season. A touch of glittering sequins and woven leather brought a new twist to classic silhouettes. The show closed with an ethereal white gown worn by model Marte Mei Van Haaster which stuck a balance between soft and hard elements perfectly.
Giles’ Imperfect Glamour – For fall 2012, designer Giles Deacon showcased glamorous looks with an imperfect edge for his namesake collection presented during London Fashion Week. The runway was dominated by menswear inspire looks such a modified tuxedo and frilly dresses embellished with feathers and burn-like patterns. As the show progressed, the tuxedo jackets gave way to form-fitting dresses featuring messy cut-outs almost as if a razor had been used on the fabric. Giles’ innovative take on classic shapes such as the hoop skirt or fish tail dress offered a thrilling view of the upcoming season.
Kane’s Darkly Beautiful Fall – Christopher Kane seemed to be in a dark mood for his fall 2012 collection presented on Monday during London Fashion Week. Opening with pinstripe dresses in black and white, it set the tone for a gloomy color palette of plum, burgundy, royal blue and black. A certain change from spring’s neon hues, a dark scheme did not necessarily mean that the collection was missing exciting details with deep necklines, leopard spots, innovative textiles and eastern inspired prints. For warmer pieces, Kane looked towards heavy knitted sweaters, knee-length coats and furry jackets.
Saunders’ Buttoned-up Fall – Recent recipient of the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund prize, Jonathan Saunders, created a ladylike vision with his fall 2012 collection. Opening the show with stiff, high collars and equestrian inspired pieces, it was clear that the upcoming season was one of elegance. Saunders played with colors and textiles, juxtaposing sharp cerulean with emerald-green and sheer with sheen materials. The austere silhouettes were softened by bold patterns which came in the form of enlarged florals, grid-like stripes and triangular shapes. For beauty, the models wore a bright red lip and slicked back hair to reflect the sophisticated nature of the collection.
Unique’s Military Chic – Topshop Unique tapped into the fall season’s trend of military inspired pieces for its latest collection presented during London Fashion Week. Models hit the runway in army green, dark plum, ash grey and black. Silhouettes were lax yet modern with a rock and roll vibe that took hemlines to the upper thigh. Layering was a must for autumn with long coats placed on top of lightweight dresses and slouchy trousers. A vast change from last season’s Egyptian themed show, Unique appears to be growing up beginning with fall 2012.