Simple Autumn Luxe – For fall 2012, German luxury label Strenesse Gabriele Strehle focuses on simple extravagance with a collection of sharp suiting, flirty dresses and tailored outerwear. Model Marte Mei Van Haaster sports the latest collection with a casual confidence, wearing hues ranging from cream to scarlet red to inky black. Luxe fur and shearling-lined jackets serve as the perfect armor for the cooler weather. Matched with a funky platform, Strenesse’s autumn outing is all about functionality versus style.
Keeping it Simple – Sonia Rykiel creative director April Crichton created a pared down showing of sophisticated knitwear and suiting for the label’s fall 2012 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. Using a muted color palette of pewter, ash grey, black and sherbet, the Rykiel woman embraces mix and match separates for the new season with a modern edge. Asymmetrical hemlines, thin belts and cropped jackets all dominated the runway as models sported slick hair matched with headbands. A finale of mostly sheer black ensembles brought a sense of dark romanticism to the practical collection.
Dior’s Classic Fall – Bill Gaytten looked towards the archives for inspiration with his second mainline collection for Dior’s fall 2012 presentation. With still no official word on a permanent creative director, the new season showcased demure forties and fifties inspired silhouettes in a muted color palette of taupe, black and burgundy. Despite the lack of Galliano opulence, Gaytten offered a lovely refinement for the autumn season with ballerina inspired shapes. Cinched jackets, pleated skirts and jewelry style embellishments dominate the Dior woman’s wardrobe for autumn.
Owens’ Fiery Fall – Taking a dark turn from spring’s parade of white, designer Rick Owens was back to black and grey for his fall 2012 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. All the usual trappings of Owens’ creations were out in full form–the long silhouettes, leather works and futuristic undertones appeared against a setting of fire. Models took to the runway wearing stark red lips and mesh masks in the post-apocalyptic designs. For the finale, Owens offered some prints in the form of checkered plaid matched with slouchy trousers layered under skirts.
Ricci’s Dark Elegance – For fall 2012, Nina Ricci creative director Peter Copping delivered dark elegance with an autumn color palette of inky black, plum, burgundy and ash grey dominating the runway. Despite the gothic colors, the Ricci woman was still her ladylike self with fur embellished gloves, hourglass silhouettes and modest hemlines. Lush wool coats were matched with sheer chiffon pieces and heavy knits. Using a mix of the classic and the modern, Copping managed to give the signature Ricci sophistication a slight edge for the upcoming autumn.
Balenciaga’s Power Dressing – Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquière sent out his own vision of 80′s power dressing with the label’s fall 2012 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. Coats with puffed-up shoulders opened the show, featuring bright dresses in electric blue and scarlet layered underneath. Metallic detailing and graphic prints brought a futuristic appeal to the strong silhouettes. Besides outerwear, the autumn season also offered mid-length skirts and slouchy trousers.
Mugler’s Insect Fall – For fall 2012, Mugler creative director Nicola Formichetti looked towards the archives for inspiration with Thierry Mugler’s 1997 “Insect” collection. The new season plays with arthropod shapes, featuring winged shoulders, furry sleeves, high slits and insect-like cut outs. A color palette of mostly black and white lets the shapes of autumn stand out. For the final section of the show, Formichetti sent out a parade of all black with lightweight hoods and sheer sleeves.
Black on Black – Gareth Pugh delivered his signature gothic style for his namesake label’s fall 2012 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. Pugh ditched last season’s bondage inspired shapes for more tribal designs complete with fringe dresses, leather outerwear and fur embellishments. High necklines, some of which that even cover the face, were matched with thin headbands, clunky boots and winged shoulders in all black and grey for the new season. Whether donning zipped up capes or shaggy coats, the Pugh woman knows how to bundle up for the upcoming winter.
Missoni’s Slinky Fall – After last season’s explosion of colors, the fall 2012 collection from Missoni muted the color palette and focused on form-fitting shapes for the new season. Designer Angela Missoni created cozy yet seductive knitwear in dreamy tones of sage green, camel, ash grey and burgundy. Accessories included thin belts above the waist, fur hats, latex gloves and boots with chunky heels. Of course, Missoni’s signature prints were also put on full display with a mix and match of luxe winter layers.
Marni’s Adorned Fall – For fall 2012, Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni exchanged her signature prints for a story of color blocking and structured silhouettes with a hint of Eastern influence. Autumn saw a lot of fur and layers with wide belts cinched at the waist. Shapes played with proportion, showcasing sculpted shoulders and wide skirts. Jewelry accents also came in the form of large brooches which adorned some garments’ necklines and sequin embellished skirts or tops. For beauty, models wore sheared fringe and long, stick straight hair reflecting the refined vision of the new season.