Aquascutum’s Streamlined Fall – Aquascutum creative director Joanna Sykes showcased a selection of androgynous coats and streamlined silhouettes for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Marking her fourth season at the helm of the British brand, Sykes focused on a muted palette of ash grey, black, navy and taupe for the autumn. Besides tailored outerwear, the new season also offered slouchy trousers, elbow-length leather gloves and asymmetrical hemlines for a youthful twist.
Proenza Schouler’s Cool Woman – After spring’s secretarial inspired fashion, Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough focused on modern, Japanese inspired silhouettes for fall 2012. Models hit the runway in androgynous shapes with asymmetrical necklines and skin-baring hemlines. A color palette of pure white graduated into electric blue, burgundy and crimson red hues matched with Eastern patterns. A story of contrast, Proenza’s protagonist was elegant yet sporty, modern yet classic, youthful yet mature for the new season.
Kors’ Casual Luxury – For fall 2012, Michael Kors offered up a relaxed sense of luxury with a strong opening of tartan, plaid and tweed. This season, Kors focused on layering with heavy blanket coats and fluid dresses for a contrasting effect. The color palette was simple–steeped in rich hues of crimson, inky black, chocolate and camel. As the show progressed, the clothing became more sophisticated and tailored with cinched waists and fur-embellished coats. For the finale, Kors ended on a sensual note with sparkling and slinky gowns reminiscent of an era gone by.
Charm School by Marc – The fall 2012 collection of Marc Jacobs’ wearable offshoot line–Marc by Marc Jacobs–featured a parade of school girl inspired ensembles complete with pleated skirts, modest sweaters and no-fuss dresses. The color palette was grounded in traditional colors of black, red, navy and sapphire. Prints ranged from tartan to stripes to floral. For outerwear, Jacobs also played with bulky shapes reminiscent of his mainline show but with a less severe outcome.
Slip into Fall – For fall 2012, Vera Wang embraced slinky silhouettes in autumn hues of wheat, marmalade, blue and ink black. The new season offered lightweight layers with a sensual, skin baring appeal in the form of sheer fabrics. As for outerwear, the coats presented were fur-embellished with geometric prints for an androgynous contrast. For the finale, Wang matched crystal-adorned bodices with airy fabric for an almost bohemian effect.
The Mad Hatter – For fall 2012, Marc Jacobs teamed up with milliner Stephen Jones to help envision his latest collection filled with oversize and floppy hats that could easily belong to Alice in Wonderland’s Mad Hatter. Playing with the fairytale theme, Jacobs offered a fantastical play on proportions in the form of bulky skirts and jackets layered expertly for the autumn season. The color palette was steeped in moody hues with accents of gold, powder pink and lilac. Patterns ranged from paisley to floral which broke up the heavy silhouettes with levity. The show ended on a more subdued note, featuring a few pared down ensembles that lengthened in hemlines and flattened in shape.
Back to Nature – English author Beatrix Potter’s botanical illustrations inspired Preen designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi for the label’s fall 2012 collection. The pair, originally from Britain, brought a bit of the English countryside to New York Fashion Week with floral patterns, butterfly prints and bold color blocking on the runway. Silhouettes hinged on classic with ’40s inspired dress shapes and tapered pants. The final section embraced a ladylike demureness with sheer lace tops and sequin embellished skirts.
Gurung’s Sumptuous Fall – For fall 2012, Prabal Gurung presented an array of form-fitting, body hugging silhouettes in a deep palette of electric blue, gold and black. Continuing a use of psychedelic prints, this season also gave way to rich metallic fabrics, sumptuous leather and feather adorned gowns. Luxe coats and sweaters served as outerwear for fall with puffy sleeves and gloves. Overall, Gurung showcased an eclectic collection–part light and part dark–which ranged from traditional sportswear to stunning gowns.
Introducing Marie – Rodrigo Bueno captures a new face from Marilyn, Marie Piovesan, with these recent intimate portraits. / Beauty by Ronnie Peterson