Koma’s Woman Warrior – Inspired by the Japanese samurai, David Koma presented a structured outing for his eponymous label’s spring 2014 collection. The new season focused on strict lines and geometric shapes with color-blocking elements in black, white and electric blue. The Georgian designer’s signature body conscious dresses were out in full force; leather and bonded neoprene curved into A-line skirts and asymmetrical folds with a slightly sporty attitude. Tying into his samurai inspiration, the Koma’s woman uniform for spring combines warrior-like strength and graceful elegance.
Holland’s Ladylike Tough – For his spring 2014 collection, House of Holland designer Henry Holland found his inspiration in Mexico City and street style. The result was an outing of relaxed and ladylike silhouettes paired with tough urban elements such as trucker hats, tattoo inspired prints and boxy tees. Metallic brocades and lace detailing brought a romantic touch to Holland’s contemporary woman. Gingham patterns showed up with shirts, pants or skirts in bold blue and red hues. Topping off the cool look are retro-inspired cat eye sunglasses and strappy heels in metallic colors.
Daks’ Versatile Spring – Daks creative director Filippo Scuff focused on lightweight, daytime looks for the English brand’s spring 2014 collection. The check print is an iconic staple of the label and was used throughout the new season in ladylike separates including strapless tops, tartan pants, dramatic capes and maxi-length dresses. Other than the check prints, Scuffi found real success with a section of black gowns cut in clean, minimal silhouettes and nipped at the waist with leather belts.
Cara Delevingne at Burberry Prorsum F/W 2013 Show at London Fashion Week
This is the final show schedule for London Fashion Week S/S 2014 which run from Friday, September 13th to Tuesday, September 17th.
Friday September 13th
09.30 Bora Aksu BFC Courtyard Show Space
10.00 Fyodor Golan WC1
11.00 Felder Felder The Studio, Somerset House
11.00 – 13.00 Ostwald Helgason See invitation
12.00 J. JS Lee BFC Courtyard Show Space
13.00 Pearce Fionda See invitation
14.00 DAKS BFC Courtyard Show Space
15.00 Christopher Raeburn BFC Courtyard Show Space
16.00 Eudon Choi SW1
17.00 Jean-Pierre Braganza BFC Courtyard Show Space
18.00 Jasper Conran SW3
19.00 Todd Lynn WC2
20.00 PPQ BFC Courtyard Show Space
Katrantzou’s Tribal Beat – Mary Katrantzou continued her use of colorful prints and architectural inspired shapes for her fall 2012 collection presented during London Fashion Week. After last season’s garden prints, autumn appeared to be more focused on the abstract with an opening of grid like patterns which progressed into something more primal, tribal even. Katrantzou did not shy away from color and showcased a range of hues such as emerald, canary yellow, ruby and sapphire blue. Although still playing with proportion, fall’s silhouettes were more tamed than usual–offering flattering shapes with a structural twist.
Giles’ Imperfect Glamour – For fall 2012, designer Giles Deacon showcased glamorous looks with an imperfect edge for his namesake collection presented during London Fashion Week. The runway was dominated by menswear inspire looks such a modified tuxedo and frilly dresses embellished with feathers and burn-like patterns. As the show progressed, the tuxedo jackets gave way to form-fitting dresses featuring messy cut-outs almost as if a razor had been used on the fabric. Giles’ innovative take on classic shapes such as the hoop skirt or fish tail dress offered a thrilling view of the upcoming season.
Kane’s Darkly Beautiful Fall – Christopher Kane seemed to be in a dark mood for his fall 2012 collection presented on Monday during London Fashion Week. Opening with pinstripe dresses in black and white, it set the tone for a gloomy color palette of plum, burgundy, royal blue and black. A certain change from spring’s neon hues, a dark scheme did not necessarily mean that the collection was missing exciting details with deep necklines, leopard spots, innovative textiles and eastern inspired prints. For warmer pieces, Kane looked towards heavy knitted sweaters, knee-length coats and furry jackets.
The Reign of Burberry – For fall 2012, Burberry chief creative officer Christopher Bailey continued to focus on the label’s own brand of elegance with a showing of modern outerwear. Using a color palette of neutrals with accents of olive-green, amber, plum and teal; the Burberry woman stands out with the season’s strong silhouettes and detailing. Tailored coats paired with flared skirts and ruched bow belts bring a flirty edge to the structural shapes. Rich fabrics of silk, velvet, wool and lace juxtapose the balance between elegance and coolness for the upcoming autumn season.
A Celebration – Celebrating fifteen years of his label, Matthew Williamson presented a fall 2012 collection that is as nostalgic as it is current. A color palette of turquoise, plum, citrus orange and dark chartreuse provided a rich variety with a combination of Williamson’s signature print work on display. Tailored trousers, lightweight gowns and above-the-knee skirts dominated the runway. Glittering sequins decorated the occasional dress paired with metallic fabric. The show closed with a partially sheer gown worn by Maryna Linchuk that was adorned with large crystals.
Saunders’ Buttoned-up Fall – Recent recipient of the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund prize, Jonathan Saunders, created a ladylike vision with his fall 2012 collection. Opening the show with stiff, high collars and equestrian inspired pieces, it was clear that the upcoming season was one of elegance. Saunders played with colors and textiles, juxtaposing sharp cerulean with emerald-green and sheer with sheen materials. The austere silhouettes were softened by bold patterns which came in the form of enlarged florals, grid-like stripes and triangular shapes. For beauty, the models wore a bright red lip and slicked back hair to reflect the sophisticated nature of the collection.