Lady Grinning Soul – Yelena Yemchuk (2b Management) takes to her hometown of Kiev, Ukraine, for a story of seventies androgyny published in the July issue of Dazed & Confused. Model Laura Kampman stands out against her surroundings in David Bowie glam looks from the fall collections of Iceberg, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Giorgio Armani amongst others selected by fashion editor Karen Langley. Boyish tresses by hair stylist Naoki Komiya and vibrant eye shadow by makeup artist Hiromi Ueda perfect the retro ensembles.
Keeping it Simple – Sonia Rykiel creative director April Crichton created a pared down showing of sophisticated knitwear and suiting for the label’s fall 2012 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. Using a muted color palette of pewter, ash grey, black and sherbet, the Rykiel woman embraces mix and match separates for the new season with a modern edge. Asymmetrical hemlines, thin belts and cropped jackets all dominated the runway as models sported slick hair matched with headbands. A finale of mostly sheer black ensembles brought a sense of dark romanticism to the practical collection.
Balenciaga’s Power Dressing – Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquière sent out his own vision of 80′s power dressing with the label’s fall 2012 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. Coats with puffed-up shoulders opened the show, featuring bright dresses in electric blue and scarlet layered underneath. Metallic detailing and graphic prints brought a futuristic appeal to the strong silhouettes. Besides outerwear, the autumn season also offered mid-length skirts and slouchy trousers.
Cavalli’s Sumptuous Fall – Roberto Cavalli presented a sumptuous fall 2012 collection made of pure glamour for the final day of Milan Fashion Week. Cavalli’s vision of autumn included short dresses in jewel toned colors of emerald-green, plum, fuchsia, electric blue and burgundy. Animal prints, fur and leather gloves dominated the runway as models sported long bohemian locks matched with smokey eyes. As the show continued, Cavalli introduced maxi dresses layered underneath long overcoats. Saving the best for last, supermodel Naomi Campbell closed the show in a stunning beaded gown with a plunging neckline.
Missoni’s Slinky Fall – After last season’s explosion of colors, the fall 2012 collection from Missoni muted the color palette and focused on form-fitting shapes for the new season. Designer Angela Missoni created cozy yet seductive knitwear in dreamy tones of sage green, camel, ash grey and burgundy. Accessories included thin belts above the waist, fur hats, latex gloves and boots with chunky heels. Of course, Missoni’s signature prints were also put on full display with a mix and match of luxe winter layers.
Max Mara Goes Under Cover for Fall – Max Mara presented an array of lush, military inspired coats for its fall 2012 collection presented during Milan Fashion Week. Following an understated color scheme of tan, army green, off white and inky black; the Max Mara woman is looking for luxury in the simple things such as slouchy jumpers or floor length coats. The new season is all about layering–from stiff collared jackets matched with striped pajama wear to slinky dresses matched with tweed shorts–these looks strike a chord between the masculine and feminine for autumn with an expert ease.
Giles’ Imperfect Glamour – For fall 2012, designer Giles Deacon showcased glamorous looks with an imperfect edge for his namesake collection presented during London Fashion Week. The runway was dominated by menswear inspire looks such a modified tuxedo and frilly dresses embellished with feathers and burn-like patterns. As the show progressed, the tuxedo jackets gave way to form-fitting dresses featuring messy cut-outs almost as if a razor had been used on the fabric. Giles’ innovative take on classic shapes such as the hoop skirt or fish tail dress offered a thrilling view of the upcoming season.
Kane’s Darkly Beautiful Fall – Christopher Kane seemed to be in a dark mood for his fall 2012 collection presented on Monday during London Fashion Week. Opening with pinstripe dresses in black and white, it set the tone for a gloomy color palette of plum, burgundy, royal blue and black. A certain change from spring’s neon hues, a dark scheme did not necessarily mean that the collection was missing exciting details with deep necklines, leopard spots, innovative textiles and eastern inspired prints. For warmer pieces, Kane looked towards heavy knitted sweaters, knee-length coats and furry jackets.
Unique’s Military Chic – Topshop Unique tapped into the fall season’s trend of military inspired pieces for its latest collection presented during London Fashion Week. Models hit the runway in army green, dark plum, ash grey and black. Silhouettes were lax yet modern with a rock and roll vibe that took hemlines to the upper thigh. Layering was a must for autumn with long coats placed on top of lightweight dresses and slouchy trousers. A vast change from last season’s Egyptian themed show, Unique appears to be growing up beginning with fall 2012.
Through the Forest – Mulberry was inspired by fantasy and whimsy for its fall 2012 collection presented during London Fashion Week. Opening with an array of fur coats reminiscent of monsters from “Where the Wild Things Are”, autumn focused on a mix of textiles, colors and prints. Creative director Emma Hill also created silk dresses in vibrant, kaleidoscopic patterns worn underneath the season’s voluminous coats. Among the accessories on the runway was a new bag inspired by American songstress Lana Del Rey, simply titled the Del Ray. For the finale, in lieu of colorful prints–Hill sent out all black ensembles in fluid shapes.