Saunders’ Buttoned-up Fall – Recent recipient of the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund prize, Jonathan Saunders, created a ladylike vision with his fall 2012 collection. Opening the show with stiff, high collars and equestrian inspired pieces, it was clear that the upcoming season was one of elegance. Saunders played with colors and textiles, juxtaposing sharp cerulean with emerald-green and sheer with sheen materials. The austere silhouettes were softened by bold patterns which came in the form of enlarged florals, grid-like stripes and triangular shapes. For beauty, the models wore a bright red lip and slicked back hair to reflect the sophisticated nature of the collection.
Unique’s Military Chic – Topshop Unique tapped into the fall season’s trend of military inspired pieces for its latest collection presented during London Fashion Week. Models hit the runway in army green, dark plum, ash grey and black. Silhouettes were lax yet modern with a rock and roll vibe that took hemlines to the upper thigh. Layering was a must for autumn with long coats placed on top of lightweight dresses and slouchy trousers. A vast change from last season’s Egyptian themed show, Unique appears to be growing up beginning with fall 2012.
Farhi’s London Woman – For fall 2012, Nicole Farhi chose to make clothes for the modern woman with a moody outing of tailored jackets, form-fitting skirts and elegant dresses. A far cry from last season’s pastel hues–autumn was all about sleek, streamlined silhouettes in shades of dark emerald, black, ivory and bronze. The heavy outerwear was paired with thin belts around the waist, charcoal stockings and leather gloves. Farhi embellished the strong shapes with glittering sequins and paillettes, bringing a glamorous edge to the structured shapes.
Through the Forest – Mulberry was inspired by fantasy and whimsy for its fall 2012 collection presented during London Fashion Week. Opening with an array of fur coats reminiscent of monsters from “Where the Wild Things Are”, autumn focused on a mix of textiles, colors and prints. Creative director Emma Hill also created silk dresses in vibrant, kaleidoscopic patterns worn underneath the season’s voluminous coats. Among the accessories on the runway was a new bag inspired by American songstress Lana Del Rey, simply titled the Del Ray. For the finale, in lieu of colorful prints–Hill sent out all black ensembles in fluid shapes.
Aquascutum’s Streamlined Fall – Aquascutum creative director Joanna Sykes showcased a selection of androgynous coats and streamlined silhouettes for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Marking her fourth season at the helm of the British brand, Sykes focused on a muted palette of ash grey, black, navy and taupe for the autumn. Besides tailored outerwear, the new season also offered slouchy trousers, elbow-length leather gloves and asymmetrical hemlines for a youthful twist.
Ladylike Edge – Taking the slot as the final major show of New York Fashion Week, Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa presented a mix of ladylike silhouettes with a modern edge for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Known for its minimal appeal, the new season focused on dramatic, hourglass shapes in hues of coral, black, wheat and ash grey. Lush materials of mohair, tweed, leather, wool and shearling were matched with metallic belts cinched at the waist. Beauty also coincided with the severe clothing as models took to the runway in slicked back hair and understated makeup.
Ralph Lauren’s Dapper and Divine Fall – On the final day of New York Fashion Week, Ralph Lauren presented a fall 2012 collection of refined glamour inspired by English aristocrats in autumn hues of navy, black, grey, plum and gold accents. The first section focused on menswear inspired pantsuits with dapper tailoring and newspaper boy hats softened by feminine curves and eclectic patterns. As the show progressed, the garments became more feminine featuring slinky gowns in long and fluid shapes of satin and velvet. A bit of glitz appeared in the form of sparkling sequins and ostrich feathers, culminating in a stunning finale gown of gold lamé worn by model Olga Sherer.
Mendel’s Glam Fall – For fall 2012, J. Mendel offered slinky gowns, lush fur coats and tweed dresses for the new season. Grounded in ash, black, ivory, champagne and amethyst hues–autumn had a romantic levity despite the dark color palette. Designer Giles Mendel also offered shorter hemlines with flirty, above the knee skirts matched with furry vests. For the finale, model Kati Nescher closed the show in a completely sheer number adorned with patchwork-like patterns.
Jewels for Autumn – Despite the autumn-winter season, Oscar de la Renta chose a jovial color palette of sky blue, powder pink and neutrals for his fall 2012 collection presented yesterday. Alongside the usual elegance from de la Renta, the showing was dominated by light layering, ladylike hemlines just above the knee and jewel prints made of actual photographs. Models also had jewels decorating their hair with crystal-encrusted headbands. Luxurious fabrics of silk, fur, lace, chiffon and cashmere brought a playful ambiance to the new season.
Charm School by Marc – The fall 2012 collection of Marc Jacobs’ wearable offshoot line–Marc by Marc Jacobs–featured a parade of school girl inspired ensembles complete with pleated skirts, modest sweaters and no-fuss dresses. The color palette was grounded in traditional colors of black, red, navy and sapphire. Prints ranged from tartan to stripes to floral. For outerwear, Jacobs also played with bulky shapes reminiscent of his mainline show but with a less severe outcome.