Sportmax’s Structured Fall – Max Mara’s offshoot line, Sportmax, presented its fall 2012 show earlier today on the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week. As always, Sportmax had a youthful appeal with high hemlines, experimental shapes and lightweight outerwear. The color palette showcased a balance between electric blue, fuchsia, off white and inky black. Autumn had an Eastern influence with origami-like folds and kimono ties appearing on lush fur-trimmed coats and dresses. Models wore wedged boots and Milan’s go-to accessory of black gloves to complement the streamlined, almost androgynous showing.
Etro’s Ladylike Seduction – Etro’s explosive prints took a demure turn for the label’s fall 2012 show presented on the third day of Milan Fashion Week. Designer Veronica Etro steeped the autumn season in a dreamy palette of marmalade, ash grey, powder blue, burgundy, navy and inky black. Slinky, body hugging silhouettes dominated the runway as models wore sheer materials paired with abstract patterns. Hints of fur, flirty ruffles and leather brought a luxe vibe to the autumn silhouettes. For beauty, models wore slicked back hair and plum or nude lips.
Moschino’s Cheeky Fall – Known for collections with kitschy themes, Moschino presented a collection of military inspired jackets for its fall 2012 presented shown during the third day of Milan Fashion Week. Using a joyous color palette of scarlet red, canary yellow, electric blue and flirty pink; creative director Rossella Jardini played with proportions and color for the new season. Models hit the runway in stetson hats, checkered patterns and bold gold accents. The cheeky showing culminated in ruffle-adorned, princess pink dress worn by model Cara Delevingne.
Prada’s Technicolor Fall – One of the most highly anticipated shows of Milan Fashion Week, Prada, presented its fall 2012 collection on Thursday. Miuccia Prada placed focused on modified pantsuits, tailored coats and graphic prints for the new season. Opening with stark black looks, the Italian designer embellished coats and pants with beads or large jewelry pieces. As the collection progressed, color was introduced in the form of geometric patterns ranging from deep purple to orange marmalade. Moving on from last season’s pastel hues, Prada reinvented sixties staples such as long vests, tailored suiting and platform heels for the modern woman. Beauty for the show was almost as bold as the clothing itself, with models sporting ombre hair and smokey raccoon eyes for the new season.
Max Mara Goes Under Cover for Fall – Max Mara presented an array of lush, military inspired coats for its fall 2012 collection presented during Milan Fashion Week. Following an understated color scheme of tan, army green, off white and inky black; the Max Mara woman is looking for luxury in the simple things such as slouchy jumpers or floor length coats. The new season is all about layering–from stiff collared jackets matched with striped pajama wear to slinky dresses matched with tweed shorts–these looks strike a chord between the masculine and feminine for autumn with an expert ease.
Ferretti’s Seductive Glamour – Alberta Ferretti’s fall 2012 collection followed in the vein of spring with seductive silhouettes featuring peekaboo cut-outs. Ferretti offered some new elements though, showcasing tailored suiting and outerwear with a masculine overtone which contrasted with her signature gowns. A color palette steeped in black, deep purple, royal blue and crimson red dominated the new season. A touch of glittering sequins and woven leather brought a new twist to classic silhouettes. The show closed with an ethereal white gown worn by model Marte Mei Van Haaster which stuck a balance between soft and hard elements perfectly.
Giles’ Imperfect Glamour – For fall 2012, designer Giles Deacon showcased glamorous looks with an imperfect edge for his namesake collection presented during London Fashion Week. The runway was dominated by menswear inspire looks such a modified tuxedo and frilly dresses embellished with feathers and burn-like patterns. As the show progressed, the tuxedo jackets gave way to form-fitting dresses featuring messy cut-outs almost as if a razor had been used on the fabric. Giles’ innovative take on classic shapes such as the hoop skirt or fish tail dress offered a thrilling view of the upcoming season.
Kane’s Darkly Beautiful Fall – Christopher Kane seemed to be in a dark mood for his fall 2012 collection presented on Monday during London Fashion Week. Opening with pinstripe dresses in black and white, it set the tone for a gloomy color palette of plum, burgundy, royal blue and black. A certain change from spring’s neon hues, a dark scheme did not necessarily mean that the collection was missing exciting details with deep necklines, leopard spots, innovative textiles and eastern inspired prints. For warmer pieces, Kane looked towards heavy knitted sweaters, knee-length coats and furry jackets.
Saunders’ Buttoned-up Fall – Recent recipient of the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund prize, Jonathan Saunders, created a ladylike vision with his fall 2012 collection. Opening the show with stiff, high collars and equestrian inspired pieces, it was clear that the upcoming season was one of elegance. Saunders played with colors and textiles, juxtaposing sharp cerulean with emerald-green and sheer with sheen materials. The austere silhouettes were softened by bold patterns which came in the form of enlarged florals, grid-like stripes and triangular shapes. For beauty, the models wore a bright red lip and slicked back hair to reflect the sophisticated nature of the collection.
Proenza Schouler’s Cool Woman – After spring’s secretarial inspired fashion, Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough focused on modern, Japanese inspired silhouettes for fall 2012. Models hit the runway in androgynous shapes with asymmetrical necklines and skin-baring hemlines. A color palette of pure white graduated into electric blue, burgundy and crimson red hues matched with Eastern patterns. A story of contrast, Proenza’s protagonist was elegant yet sporty, modern yet classic, youthful yet mature for the new season.