The Mad Hatter – For fall 2012, Marc Jacobs teamed up with milliner Stephen Jones to help envision his latest collection filled with oversize and floppy hats that could easily belong to Alice in Wonderland’s Mad Hatter. Playing with the fairytale theme, Jacobs offered a fantastical play on proportions in the form of bulky skirts and jackets layered expertly for the autumn season. The color palette was steeped in moody hues with accents of gold, powder pink and lilac. Patterns ranged from paisley to floral which broke up the heavy silhouettes with levity. The show ended on a more subdued note, featuring a few pared down ensembles that lengthened in hemlines and flattened in shape.
Donna Karan’s Strong Suiting – Last season it was the country of Haiti that inspired Donna Karan’s namesake line, and for fall 2012 it is the confidence and allure of woman–even in the menswear dominated field of suiting–which influenced the American designer’s latest collection. A color palette of grey, red and black was offered on the runway with models donning pinstripes, mohair and jersey in sharply tailored shapes. Outerwear also had a masculine influence made of boxy silhouettes and strong shoulders. Saving a sense of ultra-femininity until the end, Karan closed the show with drapey silhouettes that showcased bare arms and legs in slinky fabric.
Back to Nature – English author Beatrix Potter’s botanical illustrations inspired Preen designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi for the label’s fall 2012 collection. The pair, originally from Britain, brought a bit of the English countryside to New York Fashion Week with floral patterns, butterfly prints and bold color blocking on the runway. Silhouettes hinged on classic with ’40s inspired dress shapes and tapered pants. The final section embraced a ladylike demureness with sheer lace tops and sequin embellished skirts.
The Layered Lady – For fall 2012, Carolina Herrera embraced a story of layering complete with a cool palette of navy, robin egg blue, ash, eggplant and black. The new season introduced lengthened silhouettes, cozy cowls and abstract prints. Touches of fur, tweed and sequins brought a certain amount of lavishness to the sensible silhouettes. For the finale look, Herrera delivered drama in the form of a coral ball gown worn by model Aymeline Valade.
Lam’s Classic Fall – Derek Lam’s fall 2012 collection had all the trappings of a classic, American sportswear outing with tapered trousers, chunky knitwear and kitschy prints on display for the upcoming season. Models hit the runway in slightly mussed beehives reflecting the sixties feel of the designs featuring wearable yet luxurious outerwear made of leather, lambskin and wool. Lam also lengthened his hemlines for fall, culminating in a modest and effortlessly chic black ensemble worn by model Katryn Kruger for the finale.
Altuzarra’s Traveling Woman – For fall 2012, Joseph Altuzarra explored a fusion of French and Moroccan style with a showcase of tailored jackets, relaxed trousers and Middle Eastern inspired prints. This season offered up a naval influence with decorated coats and dresses covered in silver medallions like souvenirs from one’s sea travels. The Paris meets Marrakesh affair resulted in a polished display of outerwear paired with mid-length skirts which ooze modern luxury for the upcoming autumn.
Wang’s Pared Down Fall – After last season’s array of prints and racing motifs, Alexander Wang chose a more pared down approach for his fall 2012 show featuring an all-star cast including Gisele Bundchen, Shalom Harlow, Frankie Rayder and Karolina Kurkova amongst others. This season went back to Wang’s roots albeit a tad more polished with leather coats, netted masks which covered models’ lower faces and knitted sweaters. The collection was minimal with a focus on embellishments such as military inspired accents on trench coats, chiffon tops and sculpted shoulders. Despite its simplicity, the showing turned out to be one of the designer’s strongest efforts yet proving less is indeed more.
Gurung’s Sumptuous Fall – For fall 2012, Prabal Gurung presented an array of form-fitting, body hugging silhouettes in a deep palette of electric blue, gold and black. Continuing a use of psychedelic prints, this season also gave way to rich metallic fabrics, sumptuous leather and feather adorned gowns. Luxe coats and sweaters served as outerwear for fall with puffy sleeves and gloves. Overall, Gurung showcased an eclectic collection–part light and part dark–which ranged from traditional sportswear to stunning gowns.
Layered Up – For fall 2012, Rag & Bone designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville focused on layering with a strong, almost androgynous offering of outerwear in a dark color palette complementary to the winter season. Making this one of the duo’s most tailored collections to date, models walked down the runway in sharply suited jackets, eclectic prints and tapered pants. Despite this polished front, the Rag & Bone DNA was ever-present with sporty pieces featuring metallic fabrics, hooded coats and two-toned pants for a sleek and modern fall outing.
Wu’s Armored Lady – Jason Wu delivered strict elegance with an homage to his Chinese roots for his fall 2012 show presented earlier today during New York Fashion Week. Form-fitting yet ladylike silhouettes hit the catwalk with sportswear undertones in the form of belted coats and capes. Military inspired jackets were accented with brocade, tassels and Swarovski crystals for a glamorous twist. Fall brought out a tougher, sleeker outing than what we would expect with high slits, leather and luxurious furs.