Isabel Marant’s Western Fall – Not a label known for following trends, the fall 2012 collection from Isabel Marant let its carefree spirit fly with the designer’s latest presentation shown during Paris Fashion Week. Inspired by southwestern style and cowgirls, autumn embraced feminine ruffles, floral detailing, casual denim and leather. Fringe and metallic accents brought an authentic touch to the well-tread theme. A muted color palette with pops of scarlet, electric blue and pink grounded the new season with a modern take on old west style.
Dior’s Classic Fall – Bill Gaytten looked towards the archives for inspiration with his second mainline collection for Dior’s fall 2012 presentation. With still no official word on a permanent creative director, the new season showcased demure forties and fifties inspired silhouettes in a muted color palette of taupe, black and burgundy. Despite the lack of Galliano opulence, Gaytten offered a lovely refinement for the autumn season with ballerina inspired shapes. Cinched jackets, pleated skirts and jewelry style embellishments dominate the Dior woman’s wardrobe for autumn.
Ricci’s Dark Elegance – For fall 2012, Nina Ricci creative director Peter Copping delivered dark elegance with an autumn color palette of inky black, plum, burgundy and ash grey dominating the runway. Despite the gothic colors, the Ricci woman was still her ladylike self with fur embellished gloves, hourglass silhouettes and modest hemlines. Lush wool coats were matched with sheer chiffon pieces and heavy knits. Using a mix of the classic and the modern, Copping managed to give the signature Ricci sophistication a slight edge for the upcoming autumn.
Balmain’s Bejeweled Fall – Marking his second season as creative director of Balmain, French designer Olivier Rousteing look towards Fabergé eggs gave to Elizabeth Taylor as inspiration for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Balmain’s signature military inspired jackets took an elegant turn in the form of pearl and gem adorned skin-tight dresses, outerwear and velvet pants. Strong shoulders brought an androgynous edge to the ultra-sexy silhouettes in neutral hues of black, nude and mint green. Despite the classic reference, Rousteing still kept Balmain’s modern edge for the upcoming autumn with razor sharp precision.
Balenciaga’s Power Dressing – Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquière sent out his own vision of 80′s power dressing with the label’s fall 2012 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. Coats with puffed-up shoulders opened the show, featuring bright dresses in electric blue and scarlet layered underneath. Metallic detailing and graphic prints brought a futuristic appeal to the strong silhouettes. Besides outerwear, the autumn season also offered mid-length skirts and slouchy trousers.
Cavalli’s Sumptuous Fall – Roberto Cavalli presented a sumptuous fall 2012 collection made of pure glamour for the final day of Milan Fashion Week. Cavalli’s vision of autumn included short dresses in jewel toned colors of emerald-green, plum, fuchsia, electric blue and burgundy. Animal prints, fur and leather gloves dominated the runway as models sported long bohemian locks matched with smokey eyes. As the show continued, Cavalli introduced maxi dresses layered underneath long overcoats. Saving the best for last, supermodel Naomi Campbell closed the show in a stunning beaded gown with a plunging neckline.
Ferragamo’s Strict Elegance – For fall 2012, Salvatore Ferragamo tempered tropical prints in exchange for black leather and lace with its latest collection previewed during Milan Fashion Week. Coats had a military inspired cut with sweeping shapes and gold accents, while skirts came in flirty shapes paired with belts in black or chocolate. As the show progressed, black transformed into plum, taupe and dark scarlet hues. Designer Massimiliano Giornetti ended on a romantic note–featuring sheer dresses with brocade detailing and billowing shapes.
Dolce & Gabbana’s Baroque Woman – Dolce & Gabbana’s Italian glamour took a turn for bejeweled, Baroque inspired beauty with designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s fall 2012 showing presented during Milan Fashion Week. Influenced by Sicilian art work, models took to the runway in brocade and cherub tapestry prints. Accessories for the show included bejeweled headbands, gold jewelry and pearl adorned handbags. Delicate lace work was also on display with ladylike dresses that reached the knee and black veils worn like the Madonna. Bringing some sex appeal to the demure showing, Dolce sent out lingerie inspired bustiers and hot pants for a cheeky take on the Baroque influence.
Marni’s Adorned Fall – For fall 2012, Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni exchanged her signature prints for a story of color blocking and structured silhouettes with a hint of Eastern influence. Autumn saw a lot of fur and layers with wide belts cinched at the waist. Shapes played with proportion, showcasing sculpted shoulders and wide skirts. Jewelry accents also came in the form of large brooches which adorned some garments’ necklines and sequin embellished skirts or tops. For beauty, models wore sheared fringe and long, stick straight hair reflecting the refined vision of the new season.
Pucci’s Pared Down Fall – Emilio Pucci’s bohemian chic took a turn for glamorous minimalism with its fall 2012 presentation shown during Milan Fashion Week. Creative director Peter Dundas opened with a strong showing of black dresses in slinky silhouettes. Luxe crocodile, crystal detailing and sheer cutouts brought some sex appeal to the minimal designs. As the show progressed, some color was introduced in the form of sky blue and nude tones. Menswear inspired looks such as modified tuxedo jackets and tailored pants also made an appearance. With the lack of prints and fringe, it appears that the Pucci woman might be growing up, but as Dundas’ designs suggest–it doesn’t mean a loss of sex appeal for the upcoming autumn.