Aquascutum’s Streamlined Fall – Aquascutum creative director Joanna Sykes showcased a selection of androgynous coats and streamlined silhouettes for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Marking her fourth season at the helm of the British brand, Sykes focused on a muted palette of ash grey, black, navy and taupe for the autumn. Besides tailored outerwear, the new season also offered slouchy trousers, elbow-length leather gloves and asymmetrical hemlines for a youthful twist.
Philosophy’s Demure Fall – Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti took on classic staples for fall 2012 with a hint of 60′s flair thrown in as well. A light color palette ranging from champagne to silvery grey to ivory set the tone for the new season which focused on demure, ladylike elegance. An offshoot line from Alberta Ferretti, the collection offered crystal embellished tops, form-fitting dresses and a modified trench belted at the waist. Star of the mainline label’s spring 2012 campaign, Daria Strokous, closed the show in a full coat paired with a delicately sheer dress.
Jewels for Autumn – Despite the autumn-winter season, Oscar de la Renta chose a jovial color palette of sky blue, powder pink and neutrals for his fall 2012 collection presented yesterday. Alongside the usual elegance from de la Renta, the showing was dominated by light layering, ladylike hemlines just above the knee and jewel prints made of actual photographs. Models also had jewels decorating their hair with crystal-encrusted headbands. Luxurious fabrics of silk, fur, lace, chiffon and cashmere brought a playful ambiance to the new season.
Charm School by Marc – The fall 2012 collection of Marc Jacobs’ wearable offshoot line–Marc by Marc Jacobs–featured a parade of school girl inspired ensembles complete with pleated skirts, modest sweaters and no-fuss dresses. The color palette was grounded in traditional colors of black, red, navy and sapphire. Prints ranged from tartan to stripes to floral. For outerwear, Jacobs also played with bulky shapes reminiscent of his mainline show but with a less severe outcome.
Donna Karan’s Strong Suiting – Last season it was the country of Haiti that inspired Donna Karan’s namesake line, and for fall 2012 it is the confidence and allure of woman–even in the menswear dominated field of suiting–which influenced the American designer’s latest collection. A color palette of grey, red and black was offered on the runway with models donning pinstripes, mohair and jersey in sharply tailored shapes. Outerwear also had a masculine influence made of boxy silhouettes and strong shoulders. Saving a sense of ultra-femininity until the end, Karan closed the show with drapey silhouettes that showcased bare arms and legs in slinky fabric.
Altuzarra’s Traveling Woman – For fall 2012, Joseph Altuzarra explored a fusion of French and Moroccan style with a showcase of tailored jackets, relaxed trousers and Middle Eastern inspired prints. This season offered up a naval influence with decorated coats and dresses covered in silver medallions like souvenirs from one’s sea travels. The Paris meets Marrakesh affair resulted in a polished display of outerwear paired with mid-length skirts which ooze modern luxury for the upcoming autumn.
A Light Touch to Fall – Jill Stuart’s signature feminine, airy frocks were out in full force for her fall 2012 show presented earlier today during New York Fashion Week. The color palette was dark, with pops of metallic, plum and navy to lighten to mood. Not one to pass on demureness, Stuart also featured a mix of lace and ruffles with peekaboo cutouts and leggy hemlines for a sexy touch. Outerwear included puffy coats belted at the waist, making a strong contrast to the flirty dresses and skirts which dominated the runway for fall.
Layered Up – For fall 2012, Rag & Bone designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville focused on layering with a strong, almost androgynous offering of outerwear in a dark color palette complementary to the winter season. Making this one of the duo’s most tailored collections to date, models walked down the runway in sharply suited jackets, eclectic prints and tapered pants. Despite this polished front, the Rag & Bone DNA was ever-present with sporty pieces featuring metallic fabrics, hooded coats and two-toned pants for a sleek and modern fall outing.
Wu’s Armored Lady – Jason Wu delivered strict elegance with an homage to his Chinese roots for his fall 2012 show presented earlier today during New York Fashion Week. Form-fitting yet ladylike silhouettes hit the catwalk with sportswear undertones in the form of belted coats and capes. Military inspired jackets were accented with brocade, tassels and Swarovski crystals for a glamorous twist. Fall brought out a tougher, sleeker outing than what we would expect with high slits, leather and luxurious furs.
Dream of Couture – Giambattista Valli played with hard and soft elements for his sophomore haute couture collection presented in Paris this week. Feminine touches of lace, flowers and sequins are juxtaposed with streamlined silhouettes for spring. Valli even included outerwear with sheer capes and a more embellished take on a sixties housecoat. Models also wore large floral hair ornaments to match stunning gowns in hues of plum, fuchsia, ivory and black.