Missoni’s Slinky Fall – After last season’s explosion of colors, the fall 2012 collection from Missoni muted the color palette and focused on form-fitting shapes for the new season. Designer Angela Missoni created cozy yet seductive knitwear in dreamy tones of sage green, camel, ash grey and burgundy. Accessories included thin belts above the waist, fur hats, latex gloves and boots with chunky heels. Of course, Missoni’s signature prints were also put on full display with a mix and match of luxe winter layers.
Raf’s Farewell to Jil Sander – With news of Raf Simons’ departure from Jil Sander hitting this week (and a possible move to Dior), fall 2012 marks the last season that the Belgian designer will be known as creative director of the German label. It only seems fitting that his final season featured an expert showing of minimal, ladylike clothing which the house has become well-known for while under his direction. A color palette of powder pink, nude, ivory, scarlet and black set a classically refined tone for the new season. Simons also introduced his own take on well-known shapes with a play on proportion and color.
As one chapter closes, another one opens. Designer Jil Sander is set to take over her namesake label once again with Simons’ departure, and it will certainly be interesting to see what her vision is for the label’s future.
Bottega Veneta’s Somber Elegance – For fall 2012, Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier presented a collection of dark elegance during the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week. Opening with an army of somber black ensembles, the Bottega woman looks towards minimal yet form-fitting silhouettes for the new season. As the show continued, however, Maier introduced some color in the form of soft lavender, dark plum and abstract prints in shades of citrus orange. Many looks were matched with black gloves that ran far past the elbow. The display of understated elegance culminated in a finale gown of lush velvet, worn by spring campaign star Karmen Pedaru.
Versace’s Tough Glamour – Donatella Versace opted for a dark color palette with rock and roll undertones for Versace’s fall 2012 show presented during Milan Fashion Week. Sexy silhouettes, metal mesh and jewel encrusted Byzantine crosses dominated the runway as models donned short hemlines and fitted jackets for autumn. Embracing a dark edge, Versace matched form-fitting designs with leather gloves and severe hair. Adding to the glamazon looks were heeled boots made of more mesh that ended at the knee. The Versace logo was even incorporated on a few pieces in the form of bold, graphic lettering. For the finale, a gown of pure silver chains and metallic fabric hit the catwalk for an armored yet luxe end statement.
Just Cavalli’s Wild Fall – Roberto Cavalli’s offshoot line, Just Cavalli, debuted its fall 2012 collection on Friday–featuring all its usual trappings such as animal prints, youthful shapes and lively styling. Form-fitting pants and paillette embellished dresses set the tone for the new season as models hit the catwalk in long sleeves but short hemlines. Metallic accents came in the form of sparkling stilettos or skin-tight leggings. For autumn, the Just Cavalli girl stands out from the crowd with her fearless, bohemian luxe ensembles.
Moschino’s Cheeky Fall – Known for collections with kitschy themes, Moschino presented a collection of military inspired jackets for its fall 2012 presented shown during the third day of Milan Fashion Week. Using a joyous color palette of scarlet red, canary yellow, electric blue and flirty pink; creative director Rossella Jardini played with proportions and color for the new season. Models hit the runway in stetson hats, checkered patterns and bold gold accents. The cheeky showing culminated in ruffle-adorned, princess pink dress worn by model Cara Delevingne.
Prada’s Technicolor Fall – One of the most highly anticipated shows of Milan Fashion Week, Prada, presented its fall 2012 collection on Thursday. Miuccia Prada placed focused on modified pantsuits, tailored coats and graphic prints for the new season. Opening with stark black looks, the Italian designer embellished coats and pants with beads or large jewelry pieces. As the collection progressed, color was introduced in the form of geometric patterns ranging from deep purple to orange marmalade. Moving on from last season’s pastel hues, Prada reinvented sixties staples such as long vests, tailored suiting and platform heels for the modern woman. Beauty for the show was almost as bold as the clothing itself, with models sporting ombre hair and smokey raccoon eyes for the new season.
Max Mara Goes Under Cover for Fall – Max Mara presented an array of lush, military inspired coats for its fall 2012 collection presented during Milan Fashion Week. Following an understated color scheme of tan, army green, off white and inky black; the Max Mara woman is looking for luxury in the simple things such as slouchy jumpers or floor length coats. The new season is all about layering–from stiff collared jackets matched with striped pajama wear to slinky dresses matched with tweed shorts–these looks strike a chord between the masculine and feminine for autumn with an expert ease.
Ferretti’s Seductive Glamour – Alberta Ferretti’s fall 2012 collection followed in the vein of spring with seductive silhouettes featuring peekaboo cut-outs. Ferretti offered some new elements though, showcasing tailored suiting and outerwear with a masculine overtone which contrasted with her signature gowns. A color palette steeped in black, deep purple, royal blue and crimson red dominated the new season. A touch of glittering sequins and woven leather brought a new twist to classic silhouettes. The show closed with an ethereal white gown worn by model Marte Mei Van Haaster which stuck a balance between soft and hard elements perfectly.
Giles’ Imperfect Glamour – For fall 2012, designer Giles Deacon showcased glamorous looks with an imperfect edge for his namesake collection presented during London Fashion Week. The runway was dominated by menswear inspire looks such a modified tuxedo and frilly dresses embellished with feathers and burn-like patterns. As the show progressed, the tuxedo jackets gave way to form-fitting dresses featuring messy cut-outs almost as if a razor had been used on the fabric. Giles’ innovative take on classic shapes such as the hoop skirt or fish tail dress offered a thrilling view of the upcoming season.