Gianfranco Ferré’s Streamlined Fall – Designers Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi presented their second collection for Gianfranco Ferré with the label’s fall 2012 showing presented on the final day of Milan Fashion Week. The two embraced an androgynous aesthetic and used a color palette of inky black, silvery grey, navy and off white. Forgoing patterns or jewelry, the new season was all about shape with streamlined silhouettes that were modern if not futuristic. Ferré’s androgynous heroine also got a touch of glam with the use of lush fur and metallic fabrics for the upcoming autumn.
Cavalli’s Sumptuous Fall – Roberto Cavalli presented a sumptuous fall 2012 collection made of pure glamour for the final day of Milan Fashion Week. Cavalli’s vision of autumn included short dresses in jewel toned colors of emerald-green, plum, fuchsia, electric blue and burgundy. Animal prints, fur and leather gloves dominated the runway as models sported long bohemian locks matched with smokey eyes. As the show continued, Cavalli introduced maxi dresses layered underneath long overcoats. Saving the best for last, supermodel Naomi Campbell closed the show in a stunning beaded gown with a plunging neckline.
DSquared2′s Teenage Dream – Well known for collections with quirky themes, the fall 2012 showing from DSquared2 designers Dan and Dean Caten went back in time for their own take on 1960′s high school fashions. Opening with modified versions of the pencil skirt, knitted cardigan and cigarette pants, models walked the runway with cigarettes in gloved hands and teased tresses. A color palette of powder pink, forest green, canary yellow and light blue transformed into black as the Catens took on evening wear or “prom fashions”. Black, slinky gowns adorned with jewelry and sparkling sequins closed the show for a more sumptuous take on the upcoming autumn.
Ferragamo’s Strict Elegance – For fall 2012, Salvatore Ferragamo tempered tropical prints in exchange for black leather and lace with its latest collection previewed during Milan Fashion Week. Coats had a military inspired cut with sweeping shapes and gold accents, while skirts came in flirty shapes paired with belts in black or chocolate. As the show progressed, black transformed into plum, taupe and dark scarlet hues. Designer Massimiliano Giornetti ended on a romantic note–featuring sheer dresses with brocade detailing and billowing shapes.
Raf’s Farewell to Jil Sander – With news of Raf Simons’ departure from Jil Sander hitting this week (and a possible move to Dior), fall 2012 marks the last season that the Belgian designer will be known as creative director of the German label. It only seems fitting that his final season featured an expert showing of minimal, ladylike clothing which the house has become well-known for while under his direction. A color palette of powder pink, nude, ivory, scarlet and black set a classically refined tone for the new season. Simons also introduced his own take on well-known shapes with a play on proportion and color.
As one chapter closes, another one opens. Designer Jil Sander is set to take over her namesake label once again with Simons’ departure, and it will certainly be interesting to see what her vision is for the label’s future.
Bottega Veneta’s Somber Elegance – For fall 2012, Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier presented a collection of dark elegance during the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week. Opening with an army of somber black ensembles, the Bottega woman looks towards minimal yet form-fitting silhouettes for the new season. As the show continued, however, Maier introduced some color in the form of soft lavender, dark plum and abstract prints in shades of citrus orange. Many looks were matched with black gloves that ran far past the elbow. The display of understated elegance culminated in a finale gown of lush velvet, worn by spring campaign star Karmen Pedaru.
Blumarine’s Playful Fall – For fall 2012, Blumarine showcased a collection of over the top glamour with colorful fur coats, wild animal prints and techno silver fabrics. Opening the show with sexy ski bunny coats, designer Anna Molinari made sure the autumn season was a playful one by featuring oversize bags that looked like poms poms more than actual accessories. As the show progressed, some sparkle was added in the form of sequin embellished tops, pants and chunky jewelry. Always unapologetic with the amount of excess and glamour, Blumarine brought a sense of carefree style to the upcoming season.
Etro’s Ladylike Seduction – Etro’s explosive prints took a demure turn for the label’s fall 2012 show presented on the third day of Milan Fashion Week. Designer Veronica Etro steeped the autumn season in a dreamy palette of marmalade, ash grey, powder blue, burgundy, navy and inky black. Slinky, body hugging silhouettes dominated the runway as models wore sheer materials paired with abstract patterns. Hints of fur, flirty ruffles and leather brought a luxe vibe to the autumn silhouettes. For beauty, models wore slicked back hair and plum or nude lips.
Just Party – Just Cavalli enlists Terry Richardson for its spring 2012 campaign which stars Jac Jagaciak, Lindsey Wixson and Ruby Aldridge alongside male models Josh Beech and Benjamin Eidem. Wearing Cavalli’s signature prints and denim, the group lives a rock and roll lifestyle complete with tattoos, sunglasses and glittering accessories.
Dior Couture – Patrick Demarchelier captures a retrospective of Dior Haute Couture ranging from 1947 to present day in a photo book that was released late last year. Below we have a preview of some of the most striking images from the 240 page, “Dior Couture”, which features models Sasha Pivovarova, Magdalena Frackowiak, Jac Jagaciak, Maryna Linchuk and others. Demarchelier describes the designs best by saying, “When you’re a fashion photographer, you must inspire a dream, with Dior Haute Couture, the dream is already there.”