Secret Garden – Giambattista Valli’s fall 2012 haute couture collection was inspired by all things natural and fantastical. Marking his third season presenting during Paris couture week, the Italian designer enchanted with a palette of hues found in nature such as forest green, lilac purple and rose red. Models walked the runway with butterfly accessories and netted veils covering their heads. Voluminous ruffles matched with floral prints took the whimsical collection into dramatic territory.
Couture Roots – Raf Simons’ first couture outing for Dior proved to be a perfect marriage between the Belgian designer’s minimal aesthetic and the heritage of Dior couture which dates back to the 1940s. With the fall 2012 couture season, Simons featured a gathering of tailored suits, sweeping gowns, tuxedo jackets and coat dresses. The color palette was quite reserved featuring hues of navy, yellow, royal blue and red steeped in neutral black and grey. With a focus on silhouettes and proportions, Simons ushered in a new era of Dior with a collection of thoroughly modern yet timeless pieces.
The Glam in Couture – Atelier Versace’s fall 2012 haute couture collection kept it glam with a showing of sexy and sophisticated dresses featuring tropical hues and beaded gowns. Models hit the runway in high slits, silk chiffons and metallic accents for the ultra-feminine outing. Body-hugging silhouettes gave way to mid-length trench coats matched with oversize belts. Sheer work and revealing cutouts complete the glamazon designs for autumn.
Valentino’s Demure Couture – Valentino under designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picciol has found its own voice throughout the years and spring 2012 haute couture is no exception with a collection of demure romanticism. This season showcased florals, lace, and crystal embellished bodices, all made with the utmost attention to detail. Like many shows this haute couture season, the color palette was light–showcasing silvers, powdery blue and rosy pink for a feminine touch.
Gaultier’s Ode to Amy – Walking to his own beat, Jean Paul Gaultier did not present an array of gowns for his spring 2012 haute couture show, but instead offered an ode to late singer Amy Winehouse with a collection of tailored jackets, form-fitting skirts and bustiers. Models wore Winehouse’s signature beehive and had cigarettes in hand as they strutted down the runway with the singer’s tunes playing in the background. The color palette was a somber black with splashes of citrus and lime to reveal lacy undergarments, silk dresses and belted waists.
Candy Couture – Elie Saab presented a romantic collection of ivory and pastel hues of powder blue, rose and wheat for his spring 2012 haute couture show in Paris earlier today. Known for designing many red carpet creations, this season had its fair share of Oscars ready fare ranging from crystal embellished floor length gowns to leafy prints in mint green. The delicate showing also offered ladylike lace works and sequined paillettes for a sweetly refined take on couture.
Tisci Couture – Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci created a dark outing for the label’s spring 2012 haute couture show. Models including Natasha Poly, Kristen McMenamy and Saskia de Brauw wore oversize bullrings and earrings which also made an appearance in Givenchy’s menswear show earlier this month. These unusual accessories bring a certain harshness to the ten couture looks made of crocodile scales, leather and hand beaded crystals. Despite the change from last season’s ethereal gowns of ivory, Tisci managed to create an enchanting collection that was a cross between punk rocker and turn of the century glamour girl.
Siren Couture – After last season’s tribute to Japan, Giorgio Armani dreamed up a sultry, siren-like vision for the Armani Privé spring 2012 collection. The season’s most standout color was undoubtedly green–from neon chartreuse to forest green–the unlikely hue had its moment in Paris Haute Couture after appearing at Atelier Versace earlier this week. Slinky silhouettes were draped like waves onto the ocean, making the models appear as otherworldly sea creatures as the emerged on the runway. Armani also embraced metallic with techno silver suiting and beaded gowns. Continuing with the underwater theme, sea snake patterns brought a hard edge to the already striking display of gowns.
Skyline Couture – Karl Lagerfeld appeared to be inspired by air travel and stewardess uniforms for Chanel’s spring 2012 haute couture collection presented earlier today. The Grand Palais was transformed into the interior of an airplane with models walking down the aisles in elongated silhouettes and extended shoulder winged sleeves. Playing up the jetsetter theme, blue was a dominate hue for spring with sky blue, sapphire and navy all making an appearance. Amid the blue display, there is crystal beading, drop pocket dresses and pleated skirts.
Dream of Couture – Giambattista Valli played with hard and soft elements for his sophomore haute couture collection presented in Paris this week. Feminine touches of lace, flowers and sequins are juxtaposed with streamlined silhouettes for spring. Valli even included outerwear with sheer capes and a more embellished take on a sixties housecoat. Models also wore large floral hair ornaments to match stunning gowns in hues of plum, fuchsia, ivory and black.