Pucci’s Pared Down Fall – Emilio Pucci’s bohemian chic took a turn for glamorous minimalism with its fall 2012 presentation shown during Milan Fashion Week. Creative director Peter Dundas opened with a strong showing of black dresses in slinky silhouettes. Luxe crocodile, crystal detailing and sheer cutouts brought some sex appeal to the minimal designs. As the show progressed, some color was introduced in the form of sky blue and nude tones. Menswear inspired looks such as modified tuxedo jackets and tailored pants also made an appearance. With the lack of prints and fringe, it appears that the Pucci woman might be growing up, but as Dundas’ designs suggest–it doesn’t mean a loss of sex appeal for the upcoming autumn.
Raf’s Farewell to Jil Sander – With news of Raf Simons’ departure from Jil Sander hitting this week (and a possible move to Dior), fall 2012 marks the last season that the Belgian designer will be known as creative director of the German label. It only seems fitting that his final season featured an expert showing of minimal, ladylike clothing which the house has become well-known for while under his direction. A color palette of powder pink, nude, ivory, scarlet and black set a classically refined tone for the new season. Simons also introduced his own take on well-known shapes with a play on proportion and color.
As one chapter closes, another one opens. Designer Jil Sander is set to take over her namesake label once again with Simons’ departure, and it will certainly be interesting to see what her vision is for the label’s future.
Bottega Veneta’s Somber Elegance – For fall 2012, Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier presented a collection of dark elegance during the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week. Opening with an army of somber black ensembles, the Bottega woman looks towards minimal yet form-fitting silhouettes for the new season. As the show continued, however, Maier introduced some color in the form of soft lavender, dark plum and abstract prints in shades of citrus orange. Many looks were matched with black gloves that ran far past the elbow. The display of understated elegance culminated in a finale gown of lush velvet, worn by spring campaign star Karmen Pedaru.
Versace’s Tough Glamour – Donatella Versace opted for a dark color palette with rock and roll undertones for Versace’s fall 2012 show presented during Milan Fashion Week. Sexy silhouettes, metal mesh and jewel encrusted Byzantine crosses dominated the runway as models donned short hemlines and fitted jackets for autumn. Embracing a dark edge, Versace matched form-fitting designs with leather gloves and severe hair. Adding to the glamazon looks were heeled boots made of more mesh that ended at the knee. The Versace logo was even incorporated on a few pieces in the form of bold, graphic lettering. For the finale, a gown of pure silver chains and metallic fabric hit the catwalk for an armored yet luxe end statement.
Etro’s Ladylike Seduction – Etro’s explosive prints took a demure turn for the label’s fall 2012 show presented on the third day of Milan Fashion Week. Designer Veronica Etro steeped the autumn season in a dreamy palette of marmalade, ash grey, powder blue, burgundy, navy and inky black. Slinky, body hugging silhouettes dominated the runway as models wore sheer materials paired with abstract patterns. Hints of fur, flirty ruffles and leather brought a luxe vibe to the autumn silhouettes. For beauty, models wore slicked back hair and plum or nude lips.
Prada’s Technicolor Fall – One of the most highly anticipated shows of Milan Fashion Week, Prada, presented its fall 2012 collection on Thursday. Miuccia Prada placed focused on modified pantsuits, tailored coats and graphic prints for the new season. Opening with stark black looks, the Italian designer embellished coats and pants with beads or large jewelry pieces. As the collection progressed, color was introduced in the form of geometric patterns ranging from deep purple to orange marmalade. Moving on from last season’s pastel hues, Prada reinvented sixties staples such as long vests, tailored suiting and platform heels for the modern woman. Beauty for the show was almost as bold as the clothing itself, with models sporting ombre hair and smokey raccoon eyes for the new season.
Max Mara Goes Under Cover for Fall – Max Mara presented an array of lush, military inspired coats for its fall 2012 collection presented during Milan Fashion Week. Following an understated color scheme of tan, army green, off white and inky black; the Max Mara woman is looking for luxury in the simple things such as slouchy jumpers or floor length coats. The new season is all about layering–from stiff collared jackets matched with striped pajama wear to slinky dresses matched with tweed shorts–these looks strike a chord between the masculine and feminine for autumn with an expert ease.
Fendi’s Furry Fall – For fall 2012, Fendi was in its element presenting a collection of extravagant fur outerwear and structural-based silhouettes on the second day of Milan Fashion Week. Designers Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi chose a color palette of tawny blonde, navy and ash grey to tell a story of winter glamour complete with leather dresses, pleated skirts and puffed-up shoulders. The season’s separates were divided by an oval belt, accentuating the waist and creating a classic feminine shape underneath voluminous coats. Beauty for the show including thick coils as pigtails and icy eye shadow for a look suited to a mountainous region.
Ferretti’s Seductive Glamour – Alberta Ferretti’s fall 2012 collection followed in the vein of spring with seductive silhouettes featuring peekaboo cut-outs. Ferretti offered some new elements though, showcasing tailored suiting and outerwear with a masculine overtone which contrasted with her signature gowns. A color palette steeped in black, deep purple, royal blue and crimson red dominated the new season. A touch of glittering sequins and woven leather brought a new twist to classic silhouettes. The show closed with an ethereal white gown worn by model Marte Mei Van Haaster which stuck a balance between soft and hard elements perfectly.
Gucci’s Gothic Fall – For fall 2012, Gucci creative director Frida Giannini presented a darkly decadent collection of billowing gowns, relaxed suiting and lush coats for the first day of Milan Fashion Week. Slinky and sensuous silhouettes dominated the runway in moody hues of inky black, dark emerald, plum, burgundy and sapphire blue. Chiffon gowns brought a romantic touch to the dark palette. Luxurious materials of feathers, crushed velvet and leather also made an appearance. For the finale, Giannini sent out sheer dresses embellished with sparkling leaf shapes–a testament to the strong yet feminine spirit of autumn.