Fashion Plates – For the first ready-to-wear campaign for Dior under Raf Simons, the Parisian fashion house enlists Willy Vanderperre for a series of chic, pictorial scenes. Models Daria Strokous, Daiane Conterato, Nicole Pollard, Anna Martynova and Marie Piovesan are today’s Dior women in a simple, minimal setting reminiscent of an art gallery.
Work Week – Cover girl Daiane Conterato slips into office-ready looks for the October issue of Elle Mexico. Photographed by Takahiro Ogawa, Daiane spends the work day in chic ensembles featuring the designs of Lanvin, Miu Miu, Derek Lam, Chanel and Marni amongst others. Stylist Nick Nelson’s elegant selects are complemented by sleek hair and makeup courtesy of Ryan Taniguchi and Tadayoshi Honda.
Mugler’s Insect Fall – For fall 2012, Mugler creative director Nicola Formichetti looked towards the archives for inspiration with Thierry Mugler’s 1997 “Insect” collection. The new season plays with arthropod shapes, featuring winged shoulders, furry sleeves, high slits and insect-like cut outs. A color palette of mostly black and white lets the shapes of autumn stand out. For the final section of the show, Formichetti sent out a parade of all black with lightweight hoods and sheer sleeves.
Dries’ Eastern Fall – For fall 2012, Dries Van Noten embraced an Asian inspired outing with lush coats, tailored suiting and patterned jackets influenced by designs in London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. The Van Noten woman takes her trip to the East with streamlined silhouettes and dragon or floral prints matched with fur adorned parkas. The Belgian designer’s distinct menswear influence loosened at times, providing delicate dresses and skirts in kaleidoscopic hues of citrus orange, turquoise, jade and ivory. Despite using a well-established theme, Van Noten brought something fresh and distinctly modern to the upcoming autumn.
Missoni’s Slinky Fall – After last season’s explosion of colors, the fall 2012 collection from Missoni muted the color palette and focused on form-fitting shapes for the new season. Designer Angela Missoni created cozy yet seductive knitwear in dreamy tones of sage green, camel, ash grey and burgundy. Accessories included thin belts above the waist, fur hats, latex gloves and boots with chunky heels. Of course, Missoni’s signature prints were also put on full display with a mix and match of luxe winter layers.
Marni’s Adorned Fall – For fall 2012, Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni exchanged her signature prints for a story of color blocking and structured silhouettes with a hint of Eastern influence. Autumn saw a lot of fur and layers with wide belts cinched at the waist. Shapes played with proportion, showcasing sculpted shoulders and wide skirts. Jewelry accents also came in the form of large brooches which adorned some garments’ necklines and sequin embellished skirts or tops. For beauty, models wore sheared fringe and long, stick straight hair reflecting the refined vision of the new season.
Raf’s Farewell to Jil Sander – With news of Raf Simons’ departure from Jil Sander hitting this week (and a possible move to Dior), fall 2012 marks the last season that the Belgian designer will be known as creative director of the German label. It only seems fitting that his final season featured an expert showing of minimal, ladylike clothing which the house has become well-known for while under his direction. A color palette of powder pink, nude, ivory, scarlet and black set a classically refined tone for the new season. Simons also introduced his own take on well-known shapes with a play on proportion and color.
As one chapter closes, another one opens. Designer Jil Sander is set to take over her namesake label once again with Simons’ departure, and it will certainly be interesting to see what her vision is for the label’s future.
Just Cavalli’s Wild Fall – Roberto Cavalli’s offshoot line, Just Cavalli, debuted its fall 2012 collection on Friday–featuring all its usual trappings such as animal prints, youthful shapes and lively styling. Form-fitting pants and paillette embellished dresses set the tone for the new season as models hit the catwalk in long sleeves but short hemlines. Metallic accents came in the form of sparkling stilettos or skin-tight leggings. For autumn, the Just Cavalli girl stands out from the crowd with her fearless, bohemian luxe ensembles.
Kane’s Darkly Beautiful Fall – Christopher Kane seemed to be in a dark mood for his fall 2012 collection presented on Monday during London Fashion Week. Opening with pinstripe dresses in black and white, it set the tone for a gloomy color palette of plum, burgundy, royal blue and black. A certain change from spring’s neon hues, a dark scheme did not necessarily mean that the collection was missing exciting details with deep necklines, leopard spots, innovative textiles and eastern inspired prints. For warmer pieces, Kane looked towards heavy knitted sweaters, knee-length coats and furry jackets.
Saunders’ Buttoned-up Fall – Recent recipient of the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund prize, Jonathan Saunders, created a ladylike vision with his fall 2012 collection. Opening the show with stiff, high collars and equestrian inspired pieces, it was clear that the upcoming season was one of elegance. Saunders played with colors and textiles, juxtaposing sharp cerulean with emerald-green and sheer with sheen materials. The austere silhouettes were softened by bold patterns which came in the form of enlarged florals, grid-like stripes and triangular shapes. For beauty, the models wore a bright red lip and slicked back hair to reflect the sophisticated nature of the collection.