Sportmax’s Structured Fall – Max Mara’s offshoot line, Sportmax, presented its fall 2012 show earlier today on the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week. As always, Sportmax had a youthful appeal with high hemlines, experimental shapes and lightweight outerwear. The color palette showcased a balance between electric blue, fuchsia, off white and inky black. Autumn had an Eastern influence with origami-like folds and kimono ties appearing on lush fur-trimmed coats and dresses. Models wore wedged boots and Milan’s go-to accessory of black gloves to complement the streamlined, almost androgynous showing.
Blumarine’s Playful Fall – For fall 2012, Blumarine showcased a collection of over the top glamour with colorful fur coats, wild animal prints and techno silver fabrics. Opening the show with sexy ski bunny coats, designer Anna Molinari made sure the autumn season was a playful one by featuring oversize bags that looked like poms poms more than actual accessories. As the show progressed, some sparkle was added in the form of sequin embellished tops, pants and chunky jewelry. Always unapologetic with the amount of excess and glamour, Blumarine brought a sense of carefree style to the upcoming season.
Etro’s Ladylike Seduction – Etro’s explosive prints took a demure turn for the label’s fall 2012 show presented on the third day of Milan Fashion Week. Designer Veronica Etro steeped the autumn season in a dreamy palette of marmalade, ash grey, powder blue, burgundy, navy and inky black. Slinky, body hugging silhouettes dominated the runway as models wore sheer materials paired with abstract patterns. Hints of fur, flirty ruffles and leather brought a luxe vibe to the autumn silhouettes. For beauty, models wore slicked back hair and plum or nude lips.
Ferretti’s Seductive Glamour – Alberta Ferretti’s fall 2012 collection followed in the vein of spring with seductive silhouettes featuring peekaboo cut-outs. Ferretti offered some new elements though, showcasing tailored suiting and outerwear with a masculine overtone which contrasted with her signature gowns. A color palette steeped in black, deep purple, royal blue and crimson red dominated the new season. A touch of glittering sequins and woven leather brought a new twist to classic silhouettes. The show closed with an ethereal white gown worn by model Marte Mei Van Haaster which stuck a balance between soft and hard elements perfectly.
A Celebration – Celebrating fifteen years of his label, Matthew Williamson presented a fall 2012 collection that is as nostalgic as it is current. A color palette of turquoise, plum, citrus orange and dark chartreuse provided a rich variety with a combination of Williamson’s signature print work on display. Tailored trousers, lightweight gowns and above-the-knee skirts dominated the runway. Glittering sequins decorated the occasional dress paired with metallic fabric. The show closed with a partially sheer gown worn by Maryna Linchuk that was adorned with large crystals.
Unique’s Military Chic – Topshop Unique tapped into the fall season’s trend of military inspired pieces for its latest collection presented during London Fashion Week. Models hit the runway in army green, dark plum, ash grey and black. Silhouettes were lax yet modern with a rock and roll vibe that took hemlines to the upper thigh. Layering was a must for autumn with long coats placed on top of lightweight dresses and slouchy trousers. A vast change from last season’s Egyptian themed show, Unique appears to be growing up beginning with fall 2012.
Farhi’s London Woman – For fall 2012, Nicole Farhi chose to make clothes for the modern woman with a moody outing of tailored jackets, form-fitting skirts and elegant dresses. A far cry from last season’s pastel hues–autumn was all about sleek, streamlined silhouettes in shades of dark emerald, black, ivory and bronze. The heavy outerwear was paired with thin belts around the waist, charcoal stockings and leather gloves. Farhi embellished the strong shapes with glittering sequins and paillettes, bringing a glamorous edge to the structured shapes.
Proenza Schouler’s Cool Woman – After spring’s secretarial inspired fashion, Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough focused on modern, Japanese inspired silhouettes for fall 2012. Models hit the runway in androgynous shapes with asymmetrical necklines and skin-baring hemlines. A color palette of pure white graduated into electric blue, burgundy and crimson red hues matched with Eastern patterns. A story of contrast, Proenza’s protagonist was elegant yet sporty, modern yet classic, youthful yet mature for the new season.
Sui’s Delightful Fall – Anna Sui continued to reign as one of New York Fashion Week’s most whimsical designers with her fall 2012 collection featuring playful prints, youthful shapes and owl caps. Overlooking the more quirky elements, however, the showing also delivered solid fashion featuring divine color and fabric combinations ranging from fuchsia silks to olive-green velvets. Light layers with a hint of 60′s flavor dominated the runway with large kaftans, tweed skirts and faux fur coats.
Mendel’s Glam Fall – For fall 2012, J. Mendel offered slinky gowns, lush fur coats and tweed dresses for the new season. Grounded in ash, black, ivory, champagne and amethyst hues–autumn had a romantic levity despite the dark color palette. Designer Giles Mendel also offered shorter hemlines with flirty, above the knee skirts matched with furry vests. For the finale, model Kati Nescher closed the show in a completely sheer number adorned with patchwork-like patterns.