Keeping it Simple – Sonia Rykiel creative director April Crichton created a pared down showing of sophisticated knitwear and suiting for the label’s fall 2012 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. Using a muted color palette of pewter, ash grey, black and sherbet, the Rykiel woman embraces mix and match separates for the new season with a modern edge. Asymmetrical hemlines, thin belts and cropped jackets all dominated the runway as models sported slick hair matched with headbands. A finale of mostly sheer black ensembles brought a sense of dark romanticism to the practical collection.
Ricci’s Dark Elegance – For fall 2012, Nina Ricci creative director Peter Copping delivered dark elegance with an autumn color palette of inky black, plum, burgundy and ash grey dominating the runway. Despite the gothic colors, the Ricci woman was still her ladylike self with fur embellished gloves, hourglass silhouettes and modest hemlines. Lush wool coats were matched with sheer chiffon pieces and heavy knits. Using a mix of the classic and the modern, Copping managed to give the signature Ricci sophistication a slight edge for the upcoming autumn.
Giles’ Imperfect Glamour – For fall 2012, designer Giles Deacon showcased glamorous looks with an imperfect edge for his namesake collection presented during London Fashion Week. The runway was dominated by menswear inspire looks such a modified tuxedo and frilly dresses embellished with feathers and burn-like patterns. As the show progressed, the tuxedo jackets gave way to form-fitting dresses featuring messy cut-outs almost as if a razor had been used on the fabric. Giles’ innovative take on classic shapes such as the hoop skirt or fish tail dress offered a thrilling view of the upcoming season.
Jewels for Autumn – Despite the autumn-winter season, Oscar de la Renta chose a jovial color palette of sky blue, powder pink and neutrals for his fall 2012 collection presented yesterday. Alongside the usual elegance from de la Renta, the showing was dominated by light layering, ladylike hemlines just above the knee and jewel prints made of actual photographs. Models also had jewels decorating their hair with crystal-encrusted headbands. Luxurious fabrics of silk, fur, lace, chiffon and cashmere brought a playful ambiance to the new season.
Charm School by Marc – The fall 2012 collection of Marc Jacobs’ wearable offshoot line–Marc by Marc Jacobs–featured a parade of school girl inspired ensembles complete with pleated skirts, modest sweaters and no-fuss dresses. The color palette was grounded in traditional colors of black, red, navy and sapphire. Prints ranged from tartan to stripes to floral. For outerwear, Jacobs also played with bulky shapes reminiscent of his mainline show but with a less severe outcome.
Rodarte’s Retro Inspired Fall – Rodarte sisters Laura and Kate Mullavey brought a more mature, refined touch to their dreamy designs with the label’s fall 2012 show presented earlier today during New York Fashion Week. Taking a cue from 40s inspired silhouettes, the duo chose a subdued palette of nude, marmalade and burgundy for the new season. Leather and shearling brought a hard edge to the romantic designs in the form of aviator style jackets. Gowns were adorned in Swavorski crystals, referencing a more feminine touch.
The Mad Hatter – For fall 2012, Marc Jacobs teamed up with milliner Stephen Jones to help envision his latest collection filled with oversize and floppy hats that could easily belong to Alice in Wonderland’s Mad Hatter. Playing with the fairytale theme, Jacobs offered a fantastical play on proportions in the form of bulky skirts and jackets layered expertly for the autumn season. The color palette was steeped in moody hues with accents of gold, powder pink and lilac. Patterns ranged from paisley to floral which broke up the heavy silhouettes with levity. The show ended on a more subdued note, featuring a few pared down ensembles that lengthened in hemlines and flattened in shape.
Once Upon a Time – Codie Young gets enchanted for the fall-winter issue of Lula Magazine, lensed by Camille Vivier. Wearing romantic looks courtesy of stylist Samuel François, Codie takes to the forest with wavy tresses and natural makeup.
Boom Bang-a-Bang – The latest issue of Ponystep takes a look at the fall-winter collections through a sixties’ lens with photographer Ben Weller and fashion editor Phoebe Arnold’s high octane, over twenty page shoot. Starring Xiao Wen, Valerija Kelava, Codie Young and India Farrell, the quartet gets into the studio for a showing of fabulous outerwear and dresses from the likes of Burberry Prorsum, Tom Ford, DSquared2 and Prada.