Kane’s Darkly Beautiful Fall – Christopher Kane seemed to be in a dark mood for his fall 2012 collection presented on Monday during London Fashion Week. Opening with pinstripe dresses in black and white, it set the tone for a gloomy color palette of plum, burgundy, royal blue and black. A certain change from spring’s neon hues, a dark scheme did not necessarily mean that the collection was missing exciting details with deep necklines, leopard spots, innovative textiles and eastern inspired prints. For warmer pieces, Kane looked towards heavy knitted sweaters, knee-length coats and furry jackets.
Aquascutum’s Streamlined Fall – Aquascutum creative director Joanna Sykes showcased a selection of androgynous coats and streamlined silhouettes for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Marking her fourth season at the helm of the British brand, Sykes focused on a muted palette of ash grey, black, navy and taupe for the autumn. Besides tailored outerwear, the new season also offered slouchy trousers, elbow-length leather gloves and asymmetrical hemlines for a youthful twist.
Ladylike Edge – Taking the slot as the final major show of New York Fashion Week, Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa presented a mix of ladylike silhouettes with a modern edge for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Known for its minimal appeal, the new season focused on dramatic, hourglass shapes in hues of coral, black, wheat and ash grey. Lush materials of mohair, tweed, leather, wool and shearling were matched with metallic belts cinched at the waist. Beauty also coincided with the severe clothing as models took to the runway in slicked back hair and understated makeup.
Ralph Lauren’s Dapper and Divine Fall – On the final day of New York Fashion Week, Ralph Lauren presented a fall 2012 collection of refined glamour inspired by English aristocrats in autumn hues of navy, black, grey, plum and gold accents. The first section focused on menswear inspired pantsuits with dapper tailoring and newspaper boy hats softened by feminine curves and eclectic patterns. As the show progressed, the garments became more feminine featuring slinky gowns in long and fluid shapes of satin and velvet. A bit of glitz appeared in the form of sparkling sequins and ostrich feathers, culminating in a stunning finale gown of gold lamé worn by model Olga Sherer.
Proenza Schouler’s Cool Woman – After spring’s secretarial inspired fashion, Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough focused on modern, Japanese inspired silhouettes for fall 2012. Models hit the runway in androgynous shapes with asymmetrical necklines and skin-baring hemlines. A color palette of pure white graduated into electric blue, burgundy and crimson red hues matched with Eastern patterns. A story of contrast, Proenza’s protagonist was elegant yet sporty, modern yet classic, youthful yet mature for the new season.
Mendel’s Glam Fall – For fall 2012, J. Mendel offered slinky gowns, lush fur coats and tweed dresses for the new season. Grounded in ash, black, ivory, champagne and amethyst hues–autumn had a romantic levity despite the dark color palette. Designer Giles Mendel also offered shorter hemlines with flirty, above the knee skirts matched with furry vests. For the finale, model Kati Nescher closed the show in a completely sheer number adorned with patchwork-like patterns.
Kors’ Casual Luxury – For fall 2012, Michael Kors offered up a relaxed sense of luxury with a strong opening of tartan, plaid and tweed. This season, Kors focused on layering with heavy blanket coats and fluid dresses for a contrasting effect. The color palette was simple–steeped in rich hues of crimson, inky black, chocolate and camel. As the show progressed, the clothing became more sophisticated and tailored with cinched waists and fur-embellished coats. For the finale, Kors ended on a sensual note with sparkling and slinky gowns reminiscent of an era gone by.
Slip into Fall – For fall 2012, Vera Wang embraced slinky silhouettes in autumn hues of wheat, marmalade, blue and ink black. The new season offered lightweight layers with a sensual, skin baring appeal in the form of sheer fabrics. As for outerwear, the coats presented were fur-embellished with geometric prints for an androgynous contrast. For the finale, Wang matched crystal-adorned bodices with airy fabric for an almost bohemian effect.
Donna Karan’s Strong Suiting – Last season it was the country of Haiti that inspired Donna Karan’s namesake line, and for fall 2012 it is the confidence and allure of woman–even in the menswear dominated field of suiting–which influenced the American designer’s latest collection. A color palette of grey, red and black was offered on the runway with models donning pinstripes, mohair and jersey in sharply tailored shapes. Outerwear also had a masculine influence made of boxy silhouettes and strong shoulders. Saving a sense of ultra-femininity until the end, Karan closed the show with drapey silhouettes that showcased bare arms and legs in slinky fabric.
Back to Nature – English author Beatrix Potter’s botanical illustrations inspired Preen designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi for the label’s fall 2012 collection. The pair, originally from Britain, brought a bit of the English countryside to New York Fashion Week with floral patterns, butterfly prints and bold color blocking on the runway. Silhouettes hinged on classic with ’40s inspired dress shapes and tapered pants. The final section embraced a ladylike demureness with sheer lace tops and sequin embellished skirts.