Giles’ Imperfect Glamour – For fall 2012, designer Giles Deacon showcased glamorous looks with an imperfect edge for his namesake collection presented during London Fashion Week. The runway was dominated by menswear inspire looks such a modified tuxedo and frilly dresses embellished with feathers and burn-like patterns. As the show progressed, the tuxedo jackets gave way to form-fitting dresses featuring messy cut-outs almost as if a razor had been used on the fabric. Giles’ innovative take on classic shapes such as the hoop skirt or fish tail dress offered a thrilling view of the upcoming season.
Saunders’ Buttoned-up Fall – Recent recipient of the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund prize, Jonathan Saunders, created a ladylike vision with his fall 2012 collection. Opening the show with stiff, high collars and equestrian inspired pieces, it was clear that the upcoming season was one of elegance. Saunders played with colors and textiles, juxtaposing sharp cerulean with emerald-green and sheer with sheen materials. The austere silhouettes were softened by bold patterns which came in the form of enlarged florals, grid-like stripes and triangular shapes. For beauty, the models wore a bright red lip and slicked back hair to reflect the sophisticated nature of the collection.
Unique’s Military Chic – Topshop Unique tapped into the fall season’s trend of military inspired pieces for its latest collection presented during London Fashion Week. Models hit the runway in army green, dark plum, ash grey and black. Silhouettes were lax yet modern with a rock and roll vibe that took hemlines to the upper thigh. Layering was a must for autumn with long coats placed on top of lightweight dresses and slouchy trousers. A vast change from last season’s Egyptian themed show, Unique appears to be growing up beginning with fall 2012.
Farhi’s London Woman – For fall 2012, Nicole Farhi chose to make clothes for the modern woman with a moody outing of tailored jackets, form-fitting skirts and elegant dresses. A far cry from last season’s pastel hues–autumn was all about sleek, streamlined silhouettes in shades of dark emerald, black, ivory and bronze. The heavy outerwear was paired with thin belts around the waist, charcoal stockings and leather gloves. Farhi embellished the strong shapes with glittering sequins and paillettes, bringing a glamorous edge to the structured shapes.
Through the Forest – Mulberry was inspired by fantasy and whimsy for its fall 2012 collection presented during London Fashion Week. Opening with an array of fur coats reminiscent of monsters from “Where the Wild Things Are”, autumn focused on a mix of textiles, colors and prints. Creative director Emma Hill also created silk dresses in vibrant, kaleidoscopic patterns worn underneath the season’s voluminous coats. Among the accessories on the runway was a new bag inspired by American songstress Lana Del Rey, simply titled the Del Ray. For the finale, in lieu of colorful prints–Hill sent out all black ensembles in fluid shapes.
Sui’s Delightful Fall – Anna Sui continued to reign as one of New York Fashion Week’s most whimsical designers with her fall 2012 collection featuring playful prints, youthful shapes and owl caps. Overlooking the more quirky elements, however, the showing also delivered solid fashion featuring divine color and fabric combinations ranging from fuchsia silks to olive-green velvets. Light layers with a hint of 60′s flavor dominated the runway with large kaftans, tweed skirts and faux fur coats.
Kors’ Casual Luxury – For fall 2012, Michael Kors offered up a relaxed sense of luxury with a strong opening of tartan, plaid and tweed. This season, Kors focused on layering with heavy blanket coats and fluid dresses for a contrasting effect. The color palette was simple–steeped in rich hues of crimson, inky black, chocolate and camel. As the show progressed, the clothing became more sophisticated and tailored with cinched waists and fur-embellished coats. For the finale, Kors ended on a sensual note with sparkling and slinky gowns reminiscent of an era gone by.
Charm School by Marc – The fall 2012 collection of Marc Jacobs’ wearable offshoot line–Marc by Marc Jacobs–featured a parade of school girl inspired ensembles complete with pleated skirts, modest sweaters and no-fuss dresses. The color palette was grounded in traditional colors of black, red, navy and sapphire. Prints ranged from tartan to stripes to floral. For outerwear, Jacobs also played with bulky shapes reminiscent of his mainline show but with a less severe outcome.
The Mad Hatter – For fall 2012, Marc Jacobs teamed up with milliner Stephen Jones to help envision his latest collection filled with oversize and floppy hats that could easily belong to Alice in Wonderland’s Mad Hatter. Playing with the fairytale theme, Jacobs offered a fantastical play on proportions in the form of bulky skirts and jackets layered expertly for the autumn season. The color palette was steeped in moody hues with accents of gold, powder pink and lilac. Patterns ranged from paisley to floral which broke up the heavy silhouettes with levity. The show ended on a more subdued note, featuring a few pared down ensembles that lengthened in hemlines and flattened in shape.
The Layered Lady – For fall 2012, Carolina Herrera embraced a story of layering complete with a cool palette of navy, robin egg blue, ash, eggplant and black. The new season introduced lengthened silhouettes, cozy cowls and abstract prints. Touches of fur, tweed and sequins brought a certain amount of lavishness to the sensible silhouettes. For the finale look, Herrera delivered drama in the form of a coral ball gown worn by model Aymeline Valade.