Backstage Glamour – For its fall 2013 campaign, Emporio Armani wanted to capture the atmosphere of backstage at a runway show, and enlisted Craig McDean to shoot models Jacquelyn Jablonski, Ruby Aldridge, Esther Heesch and Anabela Belikova on location in New York City. The images capture the season’s 1930s inspired silhouettes and jewel-toned hues as well as the bedazzled accessories of autumn.
Isabel Marant’s Western Fall – Not a label known for following trends, the fall 2012 collection from Isabel Marant let its carefree spirit fly with the designer’s latest presentation shown during Paris Fashion Week. Inspired by southwestern style and cowgirls, autumn embraced feminine ruffles, floral detailing, casual denim and leather. Fringe and metallic accents brought an authentic touch to the well-tread theme. A muted color palette with pops of scarlet, electric blue and pink grounded the new season with a modern take on old west style.
Balmain’s Bejeweled Fall – Marking his second season as creative director of Balmain, French designer Olivier Rousteing look towards Fabergé eggs gave to Elizabeth Taylor as inspiration for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Balmain’s signature military inspired jackets took an elegant turn in the form of pearl and gem adorned skin-tight dresses, outerwear and velvet pants. Strong shoulders brought an androgynous edge to the ultra-sexy silhouettes in neutral hues of black, nude and mint green. Despite the classic reference, Rousteing still kept Balmain’s modern edge for the upcoming autumn with razor sharp precision.
Gianfranco Ferré’s Streamlined Fall – Designers Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi presented their second collection for Gianfranco Ferré with the label’s fall 2012 showing presented on the final day of Milan Fashion Week. The two embraced an androgynous aesthetic and used a color palette of inky black, silvery grey, navy and off white. Forgoing patterns or jewelry, the new season was all about shape with streamlined silhouettes that were modern if not futuristic. Ferré’s androgynous heroine also got a touch of glam with the use of lush fur and metallic fabrics for the upcoming autumn.
Ferragamo’s Strict Elegance – For fall 2012, Salvatore Ferragamo tempered tropical prints in exchange for black leather and lace with its latest collection previewed during Milan Fashion Week. Coats had a military inspired cut with sweeping shapes and gold accents, while skirts came in flirty shapes paired with belts in black or chocolate. As the show progressed, black transformed into plum, taupe and dark scarlet hues. Designer Massimiliano Giornetti ended on a romantic note–featuring sheer dresses with brocade detailing and billowing shapes.
Missoni’s Slinky Fall – After last season’s explosion of colors, the fall 2012 collection from Missoni muted the color palette and focused on form-fitting shapes for the new season. Designer Angela Missoni created cozy yet seductive knitwear in dreamy tones of sage green, camel, ash grey and burgundy. Accessories included thin belts above the waist, fur hats, latex gloves and boots with chunky heels. Of course, Missoni’s signature prints were also put on full display with a mix and match of luxe winter layers.
Pucci’s Pared Down Fall – Emilio Pucci’s bohemian chic took a turn for glamorous minimalism with its fall 2012 presentation shown during Milan Fashion Week. Creative director Peter Dundas opened with a strong showing of black dresses in slinky silhouettes. Luxe crocodile, crystal detailing and sheer cutouts brought some sex appeal to the minimal designs. As the show progressed, some color was introduced in the form of sky blue and nude tones. Menswear inspired looks such as modified tuxedo jackets and tailored pants also made an appearance. With the lack of prints and fringe, it appears that the Pucci woman might be growing up, but as Dundas’ designs suggest–it doesn’t mean a loss of sex appeal for the upcoming autumn.
Raf’s Farewell to Jil Sander – With news of Raf Simons’ departure from Jil Sander hitting this week (and a possible move to Dior), fall 2012 marks the last season that the Belgian designer will be known as creative director of the German label. It only seems fitting that his final season featured an expert showing of minimal, ladylike clothing which the house has become well-known for while under his direction. A color palette of powder pink, nude, ivory, scarlet and black set a classically refined tone for the new season. Simons also introduced his own take on well-known shapes with a play on proportion and color.
As one chapter closes, another one opens. Designer Jil Sander is set to take over her namesake label once again with Simons’ departure, and it will certainly be interesting to see what her vision is for the label’s future.
Blumarine’s Playful Fall – For fall 2012, Blumarine showcased a collection of over the top glamour with colorful fur coats, wild animal prints and techno silver fabrics. Opening the show with sexy ski bunny coats, designer Anna Molinari made sure the autumn season was a playful one by featuring oversize bags that looked like poms poms more than actual accessories. As the show progressed, some sparkle was added in the form of sequin embellished tops, pants and chunky jewelry. Always unapologetic with the amount of excess and glamour, Blumarine brought a sense of carefree style to the upcoming season.
Ralph Lauren’s Dapper and Divine Fall – On the final day of New York Fashion Week, Ralph Lauren presented a fall 2012 collection of refined glamour inspired by English aristocrats in autumn hues of navy, black, grey, plum and gold accents. The first section focused on menswear inspired pantsuits with dapper tailoring and newspaper boy hats softened by feminine curves and eclectic patterns. As the show progressed, the garments became more feminine featuring slinky gowns in long and fluid shapes of satin and velvet. A bit of glitz appeared in the form of sparkling sequins and ostrich feathers, culminating in a stunning finale gown of gold lamé worn by model Olga Sherer.