A Celebration – Celebrating fifteen years of his label, Matthew Williamson presented a fall 2012 collection that is as nostalgic as it is current. A color palette of turquoise, plum, citrus orange and dark chartreuse provided a rich variety with a combination of Williamson’s signature print work on display. Tailored trousers, lightweight gowns and above-the-knee skirts dominated the runway. Glittering sequins decorated the occasional dress paired with metallic fabric. The show closed with a partially sheer gown worn by Maryna Linchuk that was adorned with large crystals.
Unique’s Military Chic – Topshop Unique tapped into the fall season’s trend of military inspired pieces for its latest collection presented during London Fashion Week. Models hit the runway in army green, dark plum, ash grey and black. Silhouettes were lax yet modern with a rock and roll vibe that took hemlines to the upper thigh. Layering was a must for autumn with long coats placed on top of lightweight dresses and slouchy trousers. A vast change from last season’s Egyptian themed show, Unique appears to be growing up beginning with fall 2012.
Farhi’s London Woman – For fall 2012, Nicole Farhi chose to make clothes for the modern woman with a moody outing of tailored jackets, form-fitting skirts and elegant dresses. A far cry from last season’s pastel hues–autumn was all about sleek, streamlined silhouettes in shades of dark emerald, black, ivory and bronze. The heavy outerwear was paired with thin belts around the waist, charcoal stockings and leather gloves. Farhi embellished the strong shapes with glittering sequins and paillettes, bringing a glamorous edge to the structured shapes.
Through the Forest – Mulberry was inspired by fantasy and whimsy for its fall 2012 collection presented during London Fashion Week. Opening with an array of fur coats reminiscent of monsters from “Where the Wild Things Are”, autumn focused on a mix of textiles, colors and prints. Creative director Emma Hill also created silk dresses in vibrant, kaleidoscopic patterns worn underneath the season’s voluminous coats. Among the accessories on the runway was a new bag inspired by American songstress Lana Del Rey, simply titled the Del Ray. For the finale, in lieu of colorful prints–Hill sent out all black ensembles in fluid shapes.
Mendel’s Glam Fall – For fall 2012, J. Mendel offered slinky gowns, lush fur coats and tweed dresses for the new season. Grounded in ash, black, ivory, champagne and amethyst hues–autumn had a romantic levity despite the dark color palette. Designer Giles Mendel also offered shorter hemlines with flirty, above the knee skirts matched with furry vests. For the finale, model Kati Nescher closed the show in a completely sheer number adorned with patchwork-like patterns.
Kors’ Casual Luxury – For fall 2012, Michael Kors offered up a relaxed sense of luxury with a strong opening of tartan, plaid and tweed. This season, Kors focused on layering with heavy blanket coats and fluid dresses for a contrasting effect. The color palette was simple–steeped in rich hues of crimson, inky black, chocolate and camel. As the show progressed, the clothing became more sophisticated and tailored with cinched waists and fur-embellished coats. For the finale, Kors ended on a sensual note with sparkling and slinky gowns reminiscent of an era gone by.
Jewels for Autumn – Despite the autumn-winter season, Oscar de la Renta chose a jovial color palette of sky blue, powder pink and neutrals for his fall 2012 collection presented yesterday. Alongside the usual elegance from de la Renta, the showing was dominated by light layering, ladylike hemlines just above the knee and jewel prints made of actual photographs. Models also had jewels decorating their hair with crystal-encrusted headbands. Luxurious fabrics of silk, fur, lace, chiffon and cashmere brought a playful ambiance to the new season.
The Mad Hatter – For fall 2012, Marc Jacobs teamed up with milliner Stephen Jones to help envision his latest collection filled with oversize and floppy hats that could easily belong to Alice in Wonderland’s Mad Hatter. Playing with the fairytale theme, Jacobs offered a fantastical play on proportions in the form of bulky skirts and jackets layered expertly for the autumn season. The color palette was steeped in moody hues with accents of gold, powder pink and lilac. Patterns ranged from paisley to floral which broke up the heavy silhouettes with levity. The show ended on a more subdued note, featuring a few pared down ensembles that lengthened in hemlines and flattened in shape.
Back to Nature – English author Beatrix Potter’s botanical illustrations inspired Preen designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi for the label’s fall 2012 collection. The pair, originally from Britain, brought a bit of the English countryside to New York Fashion Week with floral patterns, butterfly prints and bold color blocking on the runway. Silhouettes hinged on classic with ’40s inspired dress shapes and tapered pants. The final section embraced a ladylike demureness with sheer lace tops and sequin embellished skirts.
Posen’s Eastern Fall – For fall 2012, Zac Posen transformed his signature evening wear looks into something a bit more Eastern inspired with models wearing high chignons and novel prints. Dramatic fishtail and mermaid silhouettes dominated the runway detailed with kimono-like belts. Shoulders held a strong shape, showcasing big, powerful folds of origami influence. Styled in bright red lips, look-at-me jewelry and fur coats; the Posen woman is certainly someone who will make an entrance for autumn.