The Perfect Ten – Marking ten years at Lanvin, creative director Alber Elbaz celebrated with some of his “greatest hits” for the label’s fall 2012 collection. From sculpted silhouettes to jewel encrusted garments, the new season certainly had a festive feeling with a showing of all skirts and dresses. Opening with vibrant jewel tones of electric blue, scarlet and canary yellow; body conscious silhouettes and luxe detailing such as dramatic ruffles, fur and lace accents dominated the runway. As the show progressed, the color palette became darker with inky blacks and dark metallic fabrics. Topped off with gloves and chunky jewelry, the Lanvin woman looks ready to party for the autumn.
Dior’s Classic Fall – Bill Gaytten looked towards the archives for inspiration with his second mainline collection for Dior’s fall 2012 presentation. With still no official word on a permanent creative director, the new season showcased demure forties and fifties inspired silhouettes in a muted color palette of taupe, black and burgundy. Despite the lack of Galliano opulence, Gaytten offered a lovely refinement for the autumn season with ballerina inspired shapes. Cinched jackets, pleated skirts and jewelry style embellishments dominate the Dior woman’s wardrobe for autumn.
Owens’ Fiery Fall – Taking a dark turn from spring’s parade of white, designer Rick Owens was back to black and grey for his fall 2012 collection presented during Paris Fashion Week. All the usual trappings of Owens’ creations were out in full form–the long silhouettes, leather works and futuristic undertones appeared against a setting of fire. Models took to the runway wearing stark red lips and mesh masks in the post-apocalyptic designs. For the finale, Owens offered some prints in the form of checkered plaid matched with slouchy trousers layered under skirts.
Gianfranco Ferré’s Streamlined Fall – Designers Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi presented their second collection for Gianfranco Ferré with the label’s fall 2012 showing presented on the final day of Milan Fashion Week. The two embraced an androgynous aesthetic and used a color palette of inky black, silvery grey, navy and off white. Forgoing patterns or jewelry, the new season was all about shape with streamlined silhouettes that were modern if not futuristic. Ferré’s androgynous heroine also got a touch of glam with the use of lush fur and metallic fabrics for the upcoming autumn.
Giorgio Armani’s Sparkling Fall – For fall 2012, Giorgio Armani presented a collection showcasing his signature suiting with a youthful, slightly rock and roll inspired edge. Opening with tailored suits in grey and fedora style hats, the Armani woman walked the line between masculine and feminine for autumn. As the show progressed, vibrant orange and pink hues were introduced with fur coats, sparkling dresses and Bermuda shorts layered over black tights. The glam designs were accented by fingerless gloves and chunky jewelery as models walked the catwalk dripping in glittering necklaces, earrings and bracelets.
Ferragamo’s Strict Elegance – For fall 2012, Salvatore Ferragamo tempered tropical prints in exchange for black leather and lace with its latest collection previewed during Milan Fashion Week. Coats had a military inspired cut with sweeping shapes and gold accents, while skirts came in flirty shapes paired with belts in black or chocolate. As the show progressed, black transformed into plum, taupe and dark scarlet hues. Designer Massimiliano Giornetti ended on a romantic note–featuring sheer dresses with brocade detailing and billowing shapes.
Pucci’s Pared Down Fall – Emilio Pucci’s bohemian chic took a turn for glamorous minimalism with its fall 2012 presentation shown during Milan Fashion Week. Creative director Peter Dundas opened with a strong showing of black dresses in slinky silhouettes. Luxe crocodile, crystal detailing and sheer cutouts brought some sex appeal to the minimal designs. As the show progressed, some color was introduced in the form of sky blue and nude tones. Menswear inspired looks such as modified tuxedo jackets and tailored pants also made an appearance. With the lack of prints and fringe, it appears that the Pucci woman might be growing up, but as Dundas’ designs suggest–it doesn’t mean a loss of sex appeal for the upcoming autumn.
Bottega Veneta’s Somber Elegance – For fall 2012, Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier presented a collection of dark elegance during the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week. Opening with an army of somber black ensembles, the Bottega woman looks towards minimal yet form-fitting silhouettes for the new season. As the show continued, however, Maier introduced some color in the form of soft lavender, dark plum and abstract prints in shades of citrus orange. Many looks were matched with black gloves that ran far past the elbow. The display of understated elegance culminated in a finale gown of lush velvet, worn by spring campaign star Karmen Pedaru.
Blumarine’s Playful Fall – For fall 2012, Blumarine showcased a collection of over the top glamour with colorful fur coats, wild animal prints and techno silver fabrics. Opening the show with sexy ski bunny coats, designer Anna Molinari made sure the autumn season was a playful one by featuring oversize bags that looked like poms poms more than actual accessories. As the show progressed, some sparkle was added in the form of sequin embellished tops, pants and chunky jewelry. Always unapologetic with the amount of excess and glamour, Blumarine brought a sense of carefree style to the upcoming season.
Gucci’s Gothic Fall – For fall 2012, Gucci creative director Frida Giannini presented a darkly decadent collection of billowing gowns, relaxed suiting and lush coats for the first day of Milan Fashion Week. Slinky and sensuous silhouettes dominated the runway in moody hues of inky black, dark emerald, plum, burgundy and sapphire blue. Chiffon gowns brought a romantic touch to the dark palette. Luxurious materials of feathers, crushed velvet and leather also made an appearance. For the finale, Giannini sent out sheer dresses embellished with sparkling leaf shapes–a testament to the strong yet feminine spirit of autumn.